For me it wasn’t not a matter of moisture seeping in. It was a matter of not cooling the Peltier cooler low enough to cause condensation at low RH.
I think I can design my own system with arduino, temp sensor and small Peltier cooler and radiator fan.
I’m interested in seeing what you find out. We attempted increased cooling to force more condensate but found the atmospheric humidity and pressure would still force its way back into the system to where we couldn’t get any lower. You have the benefit of a smaller area going for you.
@Venom121212 Hmm, there has to be a way to do this correctly. Physics dictates that if you cool humid air To the point that 100% RH is achieved then condensation will happen, thereby removing moisture.
In the chart(psychometric chart) below lets consider air at 20c and 60% RH, we can see that it has about 8.77gm of water/ some unit of air. Now if we cool that to 12C then we will have condensation just start. If we go further, say 5C(with 6gm of water / some unit of air), then we would have removed (8.775-5.5)gm of water / unit of air. So it’s just a matter of cooling the air further and further, of course with exponentially diminishing return.
Of course if your rate of flow of air over the Peltier is so high that the air never cools down enough(even though the Peltier is cooler) then for sure the moisture won’t be removed to the degree that you would expect. Which is what I think is happening for you and me too.
This is a good point. Our dehumidifiers are pumping out so much heat that the room is dreadful to be in. Feels like a desert being so dry. We can’t use the buildings AC to cool it down obviously because that would pump more humid air back in. Maybe one day soon we will be able to build a proper environmentally controlled room and not try and force an existing one 
That heat has to be thrown out of the room. Otherwise it doesn’t make sense.
Yes this is the limit we face. It isn’t our building so we have an ac unit in there so we can actually work without dying. Since that obviously makes heat as well, I’ve had to make an ac vent that dumps the extra heat into the overhead ceiling. We weren’t allowed to go through the stone wall.
Posted this on the Cura forums and below is the answer I got. I will give it a try and let you know.
I had a leaky hotend and was getting some bad prints after disassembling and reassembling. Now my filaments are getting clogged left and right.
I’ve switched to new tubing, verified hotend temp, swapped to a new 0.6mm nozzle, and keep running into clogs.
This is currently jammed in the microswiss hotend throat that runs to the hearing block. Can’t push it down through nozzle or up with needle. Any help?
Take the nozzle out and then push with 1.5mm drillbit?
I went to remove the nozzle and it’s thread cut a wrong thread through the microswiss heat block so that’s fucked. I thought I might have overtightened the nozzle. Brass is weak. Ordered a heat block for the original ender 3 hot end and it will be back running soon.
I did get to put all these plus 25 more out for delivery this morning so that’s nice.
I had some issues with overtightening and stripping aswell… the hotends are fragile. And business is booming I see, nice 
I had to buy a 5th printer just to keep up. Looking at injection molding the most common shape that we do bulk orders of. It’s scary putting money down on something that may or may not work out.
Damn thats awesome, those molds cost at least 2k right? Should definitely be worth it in the long run if you have enough orders. 
Anybody got a glass bed recommendation? I’m sick and tired of the lack of bed adhesion and having to constantly re-level my bed.
I got the one with dots. And I use a thin layer of glue stick or diluted PVA from time to time. If it’s getting thicker, I just put some water and wipe it down to a consistent thickness.
Yes, that’s the one.
I use this one. Love it.
I also see extruder issues. I think you should order a clone BGM extruder.
