Set the support angle to 45 degree instead of 65. That will put support everywhere in that overhang.
But I think it’s also because you don’t have the bottom and top layer. So first I would say correct that.
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This is one of our larger “factories” for face shields. We are almost up to 20 printers in Ashland, Ohio.
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I count 9 anycubic firehazards 
Glad to see other grinding these things out, awesome initiative
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Who provides the front transparency? How much does that cost?
Turns out my bottom and top layers were already turned on, the bottom looks like it has no layer because when I pulled it off the bed the bottom layer cleanly ripped off because my sister turned the power on the ender off on accident. Then the next layer didn’t adhere perfectly so it let the bottom layers just pop off 
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Just have to change support angle to 45 degrees. So it will create a support underneath that you would break away.
Alternatively, you can try blasting fan at 100% and that should cool it as soon as it’s extruded but I don’t know how much it would help. But I am not too sure about this.
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Thoughts on decreasing layer height so they don’t extend out as far per layer?
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hmm, that could work too. Never experimented with layer heights though. Mostly print 0.2 or 0.16 if I need more resolution.
What do you normally print at otherwise? And what nozzle size?
0.4 nozzle, 0.48 line width and 0.2 layer height.
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There is a lot that is free from donations! It is all over schools that no longer use it. We may also buy it for $0.15 to $0.35 per sheet. Total shield cost us $2.05 absolute max…people happily pay more to further our cause.
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On a really cool note, vase mode is something that I need to utilize on more prints! This uses several “vases” which are over extruded and squish together. Print time dropped from about 2-2.5 hours (5 for people who ran feed slow AF) down to 45 minutes. Better yet, the nurses still want them.
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Yeah, you can get really clever with converting parts to vase-only by adding very thin slots in strategic areas to create connections between walls that don’t touch in the 3d model. Here’s a really good example of that. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2277253
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That is exactly it! I never did this before, but will have to try modifications on a few models. Thanks for the excellent example.
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Any suggestions for getting completely square corners? I have slowed down the outer wall speed to 10 mm/s and is still over shoots the corner. Not sure if that makes sense. Looks like the picture below.
Using cura and direct direct drive. thanks.
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There are lots of things that can cause that type of effect, but one is extruder backpressure. Take a look at this article, it explains more about it. https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html
Decreasing line width would help. What nozzle size are you using?
And if you are not afraid to make firmware changes then definitely enable linear advance. But I am surprised to see that much overshoot at 10mm/sec.
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Another possibility is machine rigidity - Is everything snugged down properly? No wiggle or play?
Yet another is acceleration/jerk settings. If they’re set too aggressively it can cause issues like this even fairly rigid machines, although I’d expect to see some ringing.
Have you calibrated your extrusion multiplier/e-steps? You may be slightly overextruding.
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