I seriously don’t get it.
I use a leveling test from thingiverse i always used.
Level bed.
Use my own print = nozzle way to high.
Get another leveling test print
Level bed while printing - done
Use my own print
Nozzle scrapes on the bed
This is how much space the nozzle has after bed leveling. I can put the scraper that came with the ender betwee the bed and nozzle twice
I can model…
What i’m saying is that now 2 external files print like they should after leveling.
My own files print like on the image, the extruder is way higher than i just leveled it. Both the external and my file ran through my slicer with exact the same settings.
Life without bltouch was dark and sad.
Do you direct drive converts notice an overall difference in print speeds in different sized pieces?
Trying to mentally balance fewer retractions vs a slower print speed.
For example, my microswiss printer has a 4.5mm retraction distance compared to my other machines at 6.3mm and it prints about 108% faster on average.
I don’t have much of a comparison as bowden drive me insane early on lol. I still run decent speeds without much ringing, so it probably isn’t much of a difference. Mostly you just have to lower acceleration, and that probably makes things a bit slower for more complex, tiny prints.
Being the noob I am. I’m running whatever settings I used prior to switching over. Minus retraction settings and a couple things that wouldn’t make a difference. Speed is the same for me print wise.
I tried this first, and while changing the line width does make the paths closer together, it also causes the printer to extrude proportionally less plastic too, so if you’re having issues with adjacent perimeters not bonding, it won’t help unless you mess with your extrusion multiplier or esteps too, which affects the dimensional accuracy of your walls. By shrinking the nozzle diameter setting, the printer puts down the same mount of plastic, just a little closer together in the perimeters, resulting in better fusion without significantly affecting your overall dimensions.
This stuff is going to get crazy when I understand these kinds of things…
In that case, I would still change the extrusion multiplier and line width rather than nozzle width. It accomplishes the same thing, but makes it more profile friendly.
All this research and I don’t think I’ve had anything quite as purdy as the prints your machine cranks out. 
Same… I can only get good wall prints when I print with 1 wall 
Ehh, different strokes…
I have two different printer profiles - one for nylon, and one for everything else. Works very well for me.
I think the main issue is actually getting a solid grasp of exactly what changing X variable does - often there are a lot of interrelated things going on, and while changing X will change Y like you want, it also happens to screw up your Z setting, because X is one of the factors in the equation the slicer uses to figure out Z.
I would argue that adjusting the flow% is the intended way to change print characteristics. Also there is a flow% for first layer, outer walls infill, top layer etc. It so easy to tweak individual values and get the best possible print. For example, reducing flow on the outer layer makes the print look very clean, increasing flow on inner layer and infill nicely joins the print lines to adjacent lines and vastly increases strength. Increasing brim flow makes it stick better without affecting anything else. One can’t control all these things by changing nozzle dia.
How do I fix this mid print?
I keep fixing it but it somehow keeps getting tangled. Getting really annoying with a 20hr print
I kept having this happen once on a long print and I just took it off the spool holder, gave it enough slack so it wouldn’t screw my print, and then I unraveled until the fuck up was gone and rewound it.
I unraveled until I reached the end of my room, I have no idea how far this fuck up goes
I basically respooled the entire roll if that gives you an idea. It was such a bitch!
I’ll just do it every hour or so, if I tried to do that I would fuck everything up
I had a roll do this once and it was super annoying. Unravel slack until the print is done and then undo the knot. Luckily it’s only been one roll ever.
