What retraction issues did you have?
I tried to print the dog file from the SD card, when the machine started to print, if pulled back all of the filament halfway into the tube
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Made an extruder knob today,
Looks like a layer shift and some stringing on the first couple layers. Suggestions?
Welcome to 3D printing. 
I bought 3 spools of sunlu pla+ when it was on sale, and I cannot get it to stick to pei. Just before these, I was using whatever generic pla and had everything super dialed in. My slavemaster is demanding attention again…
I had issues with getting good prints because things didn’t stick to the bed and the fix that worked for me was getting a glass bed.
The knob and the loop key were very well stuck to the bed, I think on the knob the whole surface must have shifted. Now on the failed prints that I can not get stuck to the bed I’m going to try and slow it way way down, the petg seems to not do well under the small quick movement sections.
So, I’m working on printing some 63 tooth wheel pulleys for my boosted board, and was wondering what kind of belt length would i need to fit that? I know the stock 56 tooth setup uses a 225 3m 15 belt, would a 63 tooth setup pair well with a 240 3m 15 belt? Also, what infill and wall thicknesses would you recommend?
Here you goooo
Haven’t printed pulleys yet, but what material are you using?
That’s so perfect i cant believe its a thing. Thanks!
I’m having repeat failures with a specific color of glitter filament. It keeps clogging the hotend area to the point where I can’t heat up and force filament through.
Filament looks like it’s slowly underextruding the first layer:
Filament leaves a bubble after I disassemble ptfe tube going into hotend and force filament through (comes out fine when ptfe tube is out)
Rest of filament looks like there may be a gap on the hotend maybe?
Any help appreciated
Question:
I have a Creality CR-10s Pro with the Tiny Machines firmware (Marlin). Reckon I can afford to be brave enough to run the printer unattended/over night?
Only printing PLA(+)… so not high temps. E3d Volcano. Building has smoke alarm including a separate one directly above the printer.
We let our printers run even a week completly unattended. Atm 4 Ultimker and 4 Prusa MK3S, only thing that happens is that a print is bad for whatever reason.
You can do it, but it’s always risky. You may have a shitload of spaghetti filament filling your room when you wake up. Octoprint with Spaghetti Detective plug in can help with that.
The greater risk is a fire, especially (there are many other possible causes) from a thermal runaway at the hotend. If the thermistor becomes loose and moves away from its designated position, it will report lower than actual values, below the setpoint. The controller will try to go against it and raise the temperature, but it will never be able to reach the setpoint because the thermistor is just too far away from the heat source. The result is an ever rising hotend temp ultimately resulting in a nice bonfire.
The very least countermeasure is having thermal runaway protection enabled in marlin (it’s often not). But the only sane choice is not to leave the house (and preferably not to go to sleep).
All I can suggest is even bigger nozzle and making sure there is no gap between ptfe and hotend.
I haven’t worked with glitter filament yet, so don’t have much insight. I have a gold glitter PLA in vacuum seal just sitting there for a year.
Fair enough. I have a pink, gold, and silver glitter that print better from the same brand.
Any advice on printing faster or slower with troublesome filaments? Also do you prefer printing on the lower or higher end of the temp range?