I noticed this, particularly when loading the filament. My Prusa has an autoloading sequence where it rapidly shits out a bunch of filament when you load something in, and normally that comes out as like 100mm of string the same diameter as the nozzle.
This silk stuff, however, comes out as less than 50mm, and nearly 2mm wide it was super weird when I first saw it, I had never seen a filament “puff” like thay before.
I’ll give these settings a shot. Thanks!
Would you suggest increasing the retraction speed, distance, or both?
I got those effects for a long time too and drove myself mad thinking parts were going bad. I had just got a brand new ender 3 at the time and noticed it behaved pretty identically to a stock one that was a whole year older.
I found increasing retraction distance and speed did not help. When it exits the hotend, if does not like being retracted. It gets weirdly stretchy like a tpu almost. Turning the flow down a few % cleaned almost all those layer lines up for me. I think the puffiness of the filament doesn’t get shown while printing low layers or infill so everything looks good for a bit until it starts puffing on itself on the outside wall moves.
I’m on my 38th kg of silk pla. Inland, sunlu, yousu, cc3d, reprapper, eryone, shengtian, and DO3D are all normal brands to me and they ALL behave this way.
Hi, I had a printing problem that the broader internet seems not to have answers for. I tried printing a part in petg, about 20 mm * 100 mm in footprint, and it started peeling the magnetic Pei bed up off of the magnetic substrate. As in, it was still attached to the build plate at the end of the print, the build plate got pulled up with the part along its long axis.
I’m printing with the Ender 3 Pro, 0.4 mm nozzle, 240 on the hot end and 80 on the bed, reducing to 70 after the first few layers. Any ideas? Pretty sure I can’t just take the pei off and print on the refrigerator magnet underneath.
I use a glass bed, with something called prevailent its a 3d printer adhesive, in addition eleminate drafts in the room and try increasing bed temperature to allow a more gradual cooling.
I don’t want to replace my bed right now if I can help it, worst case scenario I’ll just glue it permanently in position and sacrifice the removability. What bed temperature would you recommend? Should I stop doing the thing where I drop the temperature?
Im really not sure about your temperatures, 240 seems high, and the bed temp also seems a bit high. But it really depends on your enviornment. Maybe try lowering the nozzle and keep bed temp the same? Im thinking if the petg comes out at a lower temp it wont have much time to warp while cooling. Best of luck!
Sorry, I should have mentioned that this is actually Inland petg+. Those are actually the middle of the road recommended temperatures by the manufacturer. I’ll try running the nozzle a bit cooler and the bed a bit warmer, thanks
You may also play with fan settings. PETG isn’t super susceptible to fan like some other filaments - no fan tends to create the strongest adhesion, 100% fan gives better surface finish. You may try increasing the fan.
You may also throw some binder clips on your PEI to temporarily keep it down firm against the bed beneath. That and add a large brim to your part so it spreads out that urge for the part to warp upwards along one axis (if that’s what’s happening here)
If you’re just concerned about removing the part at the end of the print, that one should be easier - PEI is super sticky when hot, but prints like garbage when room temp. If you let your print cool to room temp, or even throw it in the fridge/freezer afterwards, it should pop right off (assuming your bed is detachable).
I replaced my original glass bed with a piece of spring steel from MetalSupermarket and added a PEI sheet on top. It’s never failed me and super easy to bend to remove parts.
Moving the part to the end of the bed so I can clip it down is a great idea, I’ll try that and the brim. And thanks for the freezer tip, that makes me feel a lot more confident about upping the bed temperature
Clamped down the pei sheet but it still peels. Added adhesives, still peels.
Fiddled with fan and nozzle temps. Lowering nozzle temp and/or increasing fan results in poor layer fusion but warping never goes away. Tried to print petg in pla temp range and warping still persist but on lesser extent.
Tried to disable bed temp and fully rely on adhesives, diddnt help. Have yet to try higher bed temp. How hot can an ender 3 pro bed go? Tho I highly doubt higher bed temp would help against warping with my tall-thin prints.
The second attempt came out much better. This part is probably usable as is, but I’ll make another attempt. This was with nozzle 240, bed 85, brim and clips. Release was super easy, so I’ll try a cooler nozzle and maybe slow the fan down.
Unfortunately I think the “real solution” to this is to use a more rigid bed material. Either glass, or maybe G10/FR4 of sufficient thickness to not warp. You could always just throw a piece of glass/G10 on top of your magnetic sheet and set your Z height higher to match. That way you don’t have to fully convert from one to the other.
I did that before, however I ran into problems with heat transfer going through both the magnetic bed and the glass bed. The contact wasn’t good enough that the glass couldn’t heat up sufficiently to stick properly. I had to put the glass bed directly on the magnet, but then you run the risk of it being really difficult to remove because the smooth glass sticks extremely well to the magnetic surface for some reason.
it was super weird when I first saw it, I had never seen a filament “puff” like thay before.
