I’m not too familiar with your particular machine, it looks like you might need to take the fan off. I would seek the manual or someone more qualified.
For me, the heating element literally was caked in petg. Maybe try a temp tower?
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ah ok
will attempt to look into how to check
never heard of this
will look into it
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The temp tower is helpful, sometimes different filament requires different temp, and sometimes a brand of filament just sucks. Good luck!
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pretty convinced issue is with the filament
im going to try properly drying it as that may be the issue
also im going to buy a new spool
any recommendations on brands for cheap(ish) asa and petg
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Not familiar with asa, but for petg I have used amazon basics black petg and have had some good success.
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thanks a lot
will give it a go
Doesn’t PETG normally stick too well to glass, to the point that you’re supposed to tape over it or use glue stick so it doesn’t pull chunks out of the bed?
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i never had that issue. glue stick or hairspray males the release just fine, but these are not the problems he’s having
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That’s what I’m saying, you shouldn’t print it on bare glass. Not necessarily the problem he’s having, but something to watch out for once he does solve it because otherwise that’s going to destroy the build plate if he keeps printing on bare glass.
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ah thanks for the tip
i think my petg is just a bit rubbish
could be due to moisture ingress
will put hairspray down next time to save my glass
PETG is really tricky with plain glass. If the bed height or bed temp is wrong (either too high or low for either one), things just won’t stick. If you DO get those right, then the PETG can stick so well that it’ll tear chunks out of your bed.
Elmer’s purple gluestick is my go-to. Bed temp set too high will reduce adhesion, unfortunately I can’t give you exact numbers because my bed doesn’t have a temp sensor. Somewhere nearish 60-65c probably.
Printer firmware temperature limited?
Inadequate heater wattage, or too much cooling on the hotend (fan blowing directly on the heater block, no silicone sock, etc)?
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I’ve never used hair spray, glue, tape, etc. Really didn’t want to clean that off the bed in addition to all the other regular maintenance.
I have a PEI layer (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_PHRWBG82NWJVE15DKVNG)stuck to a piece of spring steel and churn out PETG parts all day. Excellent adhesion while hot, pops right off when cold. PETG is more sensitive to dialed in settings than PLA. You need to setup a totally separate settings file - dial in your z offset (PETG does not like 1st layer squish like PLA), temps, speeds, retraction, etc.
@Halbj613 Highly highly recommend walking through this website (and don’t skip steps):
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nope can go to around 300c
stock heater from e3d
i dont think much air is getting on the hotend but i can do a test
no silicone sock but i can get one
one other question
on both the pla and petg prints i wasnt getting good layer adhesion
could this be related to some water ingress in the filament?
or is it due to layer height?
on the pla i had the layer quite squished but still the adhesion wasnt great
no
yes, the initial layer height. adjust nozzle height, and then possibly adjust initial layer flow
increasing initial layer width also helps (0.6mm wide for a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.8mm for a 0.6 nozzle)
Increasing nozzle size also help (because the layer line automatically increases in width… pretty obvious)
to squished won’t do any good either, you really don’t want to squish it. adjust height using paper (the nozzle must barely grip the paper), then flow like i said above if the height didn’t fix anything. PLA and petg don’t need adheasion spray. make sure you are printing hot enough and that the fans are off for the first 4 layers
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Kk thanks
I heard pla likes the first layer squished for bed adhesion
I am going to be moving up to a larger nozzle today so will make all those changes and try printing
What size can people recommend for nozzle sizes if I want quick and strong prints most of them are relatively small
Mine isn’t a glass bed (PEI) but I print PETG between 70-80, usually closer to 80. I know there’s unit to unit variation in those temp sensors though, so it’s not absolutely accurate
For what it’s worth basic pritt stick or other PVA glue is very easy to clean, it’s water soluble so just drop the build plate in a container of water and go do something else for 10 minutes or splash it down in the sink. If the printer is used regularly I’m only cleaning like once a week
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I’m attempting to print the BOTY trophies, and I’m running into some quality issues.
- Prusa i3 MK3s
- 0.4mm nozzle
- Silk PLA
- 220°C nozzle
- 60°C bed
- 100% cooling after the first layer
- In an enclosure for consistent temps (not heated)
- PrusaSlicer, nearly stock “Generic PLA” slicing settings (only adjusted wall thicknesses, etc.)
- manual supports added for supporting the balls only
I’m getting some serious zits on the layer changes. Im thinking I’ll try setting a fixed z-seam position and aim for the back of the legs.
I’m getting really poor overhangs on the back sides of the legs and tail. I dont have any ideas for this.
Any suggestions on how to fix these quality issues would be greatly appreciated! These are the BOTY trophies so I’m aiming to get the best quality I can.
Thanks!
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All of the silk filaments do this weird thing where they puff up and stay stretchy and malleable for a few seconds out of the hotend. Imagine it like a petg/pla hybrid.
I’ve noticed that I have to turn flow down a few percent and turn fan speed down a bit to avoid those wavy zits. I find 98% flow, 210° C nozzle, and 75% fan works best for me with gold silk. Turning speed down a bit helps with the puffy filament issues. I do about 50mm/sec overall and I think 25mm/sec on the walls.
Keep me posted!
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Zits are a result of not enough retraction, or a retraction speed issue. (overextrusion on layer changes).
Ugly overhangs are a cooling issue. Probably not getting enough airflow to the back side.
Silk filaments are just more fussy and can bring out tuning issues more than other types.
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