I have an ultrabase too and didn’t ever use any additional stuff for adhesion (PLA, ASA, PETG), in fact it is bad for the ultrabase, you shouldn’t use hairspray and stuff.
When you have first layer issues that is most likely related to bad leveling, too low bed temperature or a too thin initial line width. For example I have the bed at 90 degrees Celsius for PETG and it sticks like hell until cooled down. I highly recommend a (manual or auto) 25 point mesh leveling, that will account for concave or convex bed surfaces.
Not really having bed level or first layer issues. Just needed glue to help it stick. But after cleaning bed and raising it a bit, it is sticking perfect. Below is the print that just came off. View is the side facing the bed. Nervous to do petg on this glass. Will probably do a small print first to test if it sticks too well.
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I print PLA and PETG directly to heated glass (square mirror tiles in my case). I wipe the glass clean with 99% IPA and paper towels between prints. Once the bed cools, parts pop off easily. I’ve only ever had glass chunks come off when using hairspray w/ ABS and PVA glue w/ Nylon, especially when trying to cool the parts too fast to get them off.
As echoed above, first layer is critical. I moved to a BL Touch knock-off about a year ago and my first layers have been flawless. This is where I got mine
3D Touch from Trianglelab
Glue stick always came off easy with warm water, soap and a brush
I use a purpose made liquid that may be similar to hairspray and also goes away in the water and a but if brushing
I have the triangle lab 3d touch but I’ve been having problems setting it up. Was begining to wonder if I was victim to the 'ole buy cheap buy twice domain.
Gotta get back to setting that up. I really want auto bed leveling
Did you get the inconsistent extrusion fixed?
Look at this. He has the same exact problem and turns out it was the extruder.
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I’m always getting pretty high time estimates. Can’t be normal? 3.3 hours for that small piece??
13 Hours for the fender? 0.2 resolution.
I get the same time too. If I remember correctly.
How funny, I just came on here to ask you something about my extruder that arrived.
I installed it the way my old extruder was installed and this photo shows
But then the last photo on the item link has it installed backwards (filament entering through spring lever)
It shouldn’t really matter as the motor is controlling direction but just curious if you have a preference.
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Haha. Nice coincidence. As for the orientation, I don’t think it would make any difference. Let us know if the extrusion gets consistent with this.
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Also that last photo doesn’t look like it uses the tubing holder piece. The first photo shows it holding tubing. Should I have a small piece of ptfe tubing on the inlet?
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Inlet shouldn’t matter. The path from outlet has to be through a tube until the nozzle though.
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Thank you, I will do some test printing in the next few days and see what changes.
After switching extruders, I was still getting underextrusion at 0.78mm line width and 0.6mm nozzle.
I started bumping up the flow rate and saw some improvement. Normally, my old extruder would start binding around 120% flow rate. This dual gear extruder allowed me to keep increasing the flow rate until lines looked more correct.
This was at 142% flow rate though, that seems unhealthy. I got no binding though and prints filled in better.
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Before you do any flow rate stuff, you always have to do an esteps calibration. Did you do that?
Basically set your flow to 100%. try to extrude 10mm of filament and see how much it actually extrudes. Change your esteps based on that. in ender 3 you can change the esteps from the console itself.
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No, but I am familiar with how it’s done and I will get around to doing that.
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yah after looking over the mechanical side of things. I would actually just start over with the firmware side. if you have messed around with marlin firmware. reset that. if you have messed too much with weird settings. reset that and get a fresh copy of creawesome mod. and then do the normal calibration stuff.
PID hotend–> e-steps calibration–>Extrusion multiplier (flow% in cura)–> I would also do linear advance. If you dont do these 3-4 things you are a lost cause my friend.
and then some optional stuff like messing around with start and finish g code, PID tune bed, and all the other nonsense like calibrating each and every filament, ( stuff like e-steps, extrusion multiplier, linear advance and the obvious stuff like retraction, fan speed, and hotend temperature. are all things that can vary to certain degrees based on filament.) this is why I am real anal about switching from my good and trusty filament.
PLA (im a hooker for the cheap stuff so I mix around a lot there, they are mostly all decent quality) and I mostly use if for prototyping and non important non structural stuff.
PETG das filament is my to go to. I have a big roll of junk stuff that I can’t get myself to use and to cheap to get some new good stuff. so I mostly use nylon or pla instead.
Nylon: taulman 910 is what’s up. might consider some cheaper alternatives like railman bridge for semi import stuff that I can get myself to waste 910 on.
but basically google around and get some good shit that fits you needs and stick with it.
edit oopsie replied to the wring post
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So after I do my estep calibration, do I just eyeball the flow rate adjustment?
My petg cover bit the dust, after I carelessly dropped my board. So trying to print the thing with 4 walls out of TPU and some other mods… also will use back pack straps to hold the battery on instead of relying on double side velcro and duck tape. 31+ hrs to go for one half (using TPU at .2mm layer height it’s slow going but so far so good, wish me luck).
In other news torqueboards trucks aren’t impervious to being rolled over by cars.
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TPU seems to be the ideal filament for this application, really interested to see how yours comes out. 100% infill?
Also yeah unfortunately thats not the first bent TB hanger we’ve seen due to being run over by a car. Maybe it saved your deck though we never know
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