have like 5kg of some supposedly decent pla by ys filaments
for some reason though it kept printing badly giving strigning and bad adhesion
i thought it was the printer so kept adjusting things and still didnt work
changed to some steadytech pla and it is printing perfectly now
is this old pla dead or is there anything i can try to save it?
Filament drying? Stringing seems to be a pretty big issue with filament in the open air for a while. PLA definitely absorbs some moisture, and others like nylon can be much much worse almost becoming “unusable” in 24 hours without heat drying the filament.
yeah was gonna buy a heat box for them but looked and they cost way to much for me
might convert a food dehydrator
will stick in the oven for a couple hours and see if it gets any better
hopefully its just that def was left out in the open for a couple weeks
Be careful, don’t mess up the kitchen even more…
yep usually use 60-70C for around 6 hours and do it in a tray wrapped in foil
what adhesives do people use? dont like standard glue as first layer doesnt come with a glossy finish. tried hair spray but most ones dont stick much
any good spray on that actually sticks?
Depends on the material you are printing with, for PLA plain clean glass is 
wham bam which is pex (similiar to pei) and pla/petg
they stick well but every so often mainly with prints with hard corners they peel up a bit
abs i use slurry
I mainly print in either pla or petg, I have a glass bed, one side is plain the other is coated in a thin layer of PVA. Works well for me.
Sounds like you need to use a brim, or corner tabs.
I use AquaNet unscented extra hold hairspray, in the purple can. Works great for me.
So I’ve been wanting led lights on my 3d printer to see what I’m doing for a while now. I didn’t want to bother with the neopixels port and rewriting any FW to adjust… I just wanted some lights so I don’t have to keep a small flashlight by each printer.
I also wanted it to be cheeeeaaaaap. It’s just led strips and a dimmer switch after all.
I kept seeing kits like these which were basic plug and play using an xt60 splitter. I swapped my connectors to xt90s and didn’t want to make a ton of tiny adapters so I set out to find my own solution.
I found this 24v 8A controller in a 3 pack for $10
Conveniently, I needed to light up 3 machines so boom, sold.
Then I just needed some 24v led strips. I could have bought a huge roll and cut to size but I found some that were the right length, came on an aluminum backing plate, and had leads running off for cheap enough @ $7/each so I caved.
Supplies in hand here we go, as fast as possible. Power off of course.
Grab yourself some 14-16 gauge wire (smaller will probably work but is more annoying to crimp) and crimp on 2 ring terminals
As labeled above, use one of the open V+ and V- terminals to attach your positive and negative newly crimped terminals.
When choosing a switch mounting location, make sure nothing is going to run into it. Think it through…
This controller just happened to share a bolt pattern with the power supply unit so I cheated and attached it there making sure to use short bolts that wouldn’t go too far. That’s the easy way out.
Run the power supply cables up this side of the PSU so the bolts won’t interfere. These guys fit nicely in the V slot extrusion.
Clip enough to fit perfectly, plus an extra cm.
Should look about like this now.
I 3d printed some tiny clips and rail fillers to hold the lights and screwed them together with random hardware I had laying around.
And voila, you have added lights to your printer for ~$10.
Got 2 done in under a half hour and will do the 3rd after lunch.
That’s awesome dude! Bookmarked
Got my final(until next one 
) design finished and tested. Works beautifully but most importantly is very easy to service or swap.
looks awesome
do you have any files you could share as i use a titan on a creality printer also and have been looking for a good mount
This is a direct drive and mine sits on rails. I can share files but if you have no means to CAD its useless.
I am running duet maestro so my firmware is custom as well with all the probe and nozzle offsets.
same also using titan
what are the advantgaes and disadvantages of getting it to sit directly on the rails?
ah well leave i then as i hate changing firmware and stuff so annoying
Duet firmware is not annoying at all. Its just changing the gcode as the boards runs on macros. Change it, reboot and new settings are good to go. Never going back to something different like marlin.
DD advantage is printing flexibles reliably and more precise control of filament. When you do retractions, filament has enough play in bowden tube to be less controllable. the tube moves with the head and at different spot it could have different play inside. Filament is 1.75 and the tube is 2mm ID, less for capricorn, but still.
I dont mind going slower with added weight and prefer precision over speed
yeah
got titan aero but no good mounts
the current one im using doesnt allow part cooling fan so still looking for a better one
yours looks good but cant be bothered doing complicated stuff
why is it better then marlin?
First its a 32bit board
Then firmware sits untouched and hidden and all config, homing, pause, resume etc sits in gcode files with gcode commands in them. You connect to your printer via browser, open settings file you want to change, reboot and you are done. You even program LCD so you can have thing you need. You can also have complex macro commands which you can call up via browser or LCD. Its like night and day in convenience.
My workshop is in another building and when printers sit idle, i can start prints remotely with PTZ camera to monitor. Massive tools
nice seems awesome
do you need to change from the creality board? how long does it take to change (not gonna do cause i finally have mine working) just interested to hear.
also do you have t setup the whole settings for the printer yourself or it comes with pre done settings?
