worked fine, ive been too lazy to swap the power switch as its been working fine but I actually haven’t had a single problem.
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really bad Z banding, but cant do much.
I got a Bl touch kit from creality for the ender-3 pro installed it tonight, loaded the new firmware with auto bed leveling then tried to auto home, nothing, moving the Z, still nothing,etc with the other axis, they just lock themselves,
I don’t know what to do someone has any idea?
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I have been looking around online for upgrading 3d printer motors from stock to something larger than stock. For example, replacing the Ender 5 plus nema 17 42-48 stepper motor to a nema 23 57-82. My overall goal would be to reduce ghosting and artifacts when installing a heavier direct drive setup.
I haven’t seen much on this topic, any ideas?
Im generally wondering about upgrading their size and amperage and its affect on printing, not wether or not I can fit it.
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I honestly think upgrading just the motors won’t really affect the quality/ghosting very much at all - The only real reason to upgrade the motors is if you’re needing more acceleration/jerk, because you’re losing steps, and you can’t increase your motor drive current anymore without overheating things.
The ghosting has a lot more to do with rigidity of the structure, and its vibration/flex harmonics - Adding some solid panels or bracing to the frame will help a lot more.
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is a part cooling fan very important? the design for my mount doesnt include a place for it should i adapt a piece to include it?
What does the extruder assembly look like all together?
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not sure what you mean
Can you take a picture of the extruder assembly together on your printer, I thought it was all planned out.
so yeah was planned but the fan type was slightly different the one which allowed the fan in
gonna get a different piece printed myself prob
thanks though
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It really depends on what material you’re printing, and a bunch of other things too.
For example, nylon really really doesn’t like part cooling. It kills the layer adhesion.
PLA needs more cooling, and performs very well with it, allowing you to achieve great parts with lots of overhangs and bridges.
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Thanks gonna use it then as using pla for the moment
Just like the MysticalDork said, it all depends on the type of filament you’re using. PLA loves it.
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Wow that’s insane that it can bridge that gap
Hopefully gonna finally ge my printer fully working tomorrow will def use he fan for pla
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Yep. These printers of mine seem to be able to bridge for miles without issue. Just got mess with the fan settings a little depending on the gap you’re filling.
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i spent a bit of time today fixing my printer got it all working and everything finally looking ok however for some reason now the x axis doesnt seem to hit the endstop for homing
it just keeps trying to go along the belt and wont stop until i turn the printer off
why could this be and how can i adjust the position of that switch to let it hit?
thanks
You either put it back wrong or didn’t plug the end stop switch back in.
If it was making contact before, it should still be.
A good life long recommendation:
If you’re taking something apart, take photos EVERY STEP OF THE WAY.
Then you can look back and see how it should be.
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so didnt really take anything apart except the current hotend mount
i never touched the endstop
my theory is that i put the pulleys back to far in one direction
endstop works fine just the carraige hits the end of the x axis before hitting the endstop
I would send a photo of it when it is close to touching the x axis. Hard to diagnose without a picture.
You know they need to line up and where they make contact… That’s a pretty good place to start looking 
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