Yep. It can be that high. Mine is somewhere around 435 with my bmg extruder.
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Nice ok yeah did 2 prints both turned out nice
Except abs did lots of warping
“Except the ABS behaved like ABS”
FTFY 
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One of my first ventures in 3D printing was at our school Invention Studio. At that time it was all ABS, and we had perforated print beds and used rafts and thicker initial layer so we could get plastic into those holes to help keep it down in addition to a fully enclosed print bed and ABS slurry, and it still warped half the time. We switched to PLA as soon as we could find a sponsor to donate those instead.
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Told yah dude, that printbite has saved me so much time and money it’s insane. Glad you like it.
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Try petg, it prints a lot like pla but its wayyy stronger.
Well the thing was this was a school thing, and since we didn’t get any budget for filament, we relied on filament donations from companies, and took whatever we got. I need to try PETG sometime at home, but I don’t have a great way to dry it once it absorbs moisture, and I’ll need a few upgrades so it can handle the higher temperatures.
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Ah I see. As for water, I have a lot of experience in that area. I live on a sailboat that is wet every morning from condensation. My environment is extremely humid. As far as PETG is concerned, I have not had a single issue with water ruining filaments or prints. I leave my spools open on a rack inside a non air tight locker. Don’t worry about water.
I use ESun translucent petg.
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Hmm that’s interesting. Every so often my PLA prints end up stringing badly if I leave the filament on the printer too long, and I need to stick it in a Ziploc bag with dessicant for a few weeks before it prints fine again. It’s not particularly humid here either, so I’m not quite sure why it happens.
PETG is a little bit hygroscopic/water sensitive, but it’s minor.
Nylon is wayyyyyyyyy worse in that respect.
Ehh, most PETG prints around 215-245 degrees, which is within the safe range of standard teflon-lined hot ends. An all metal hot end would be a nice upgrade, but not 100% required.
It really depends on the exact brand and blend of PLA. Some are far more sensitive than others.
Well if my PLA is absorbing water somehow, chances are PETG will probably be similar. I’ll need to try it sometime, but in the meantime, PLA+ has been suiting my needs quite well.
I was hoping to get a more trustworthy Bowden tube like a Capricorn tube and actual hot end insulation unlike the stock kapton tape on two sides before I crank it up. The stock parts are probably fine, but my cooling ducts are printed and I’d like a bit more insulation.
yep exactly
also @redbaron for some reason did 2 really good prints on and then suddenly today printer was acting weird
in some places the nozzle was to close in others to far. i levelled the bed so the whole thing is withing 0.1mm of the same height and still was getting pretty aweful results dunno what the issue was
gonna figure it out today
Aaaaalright. My esteps is dead on. I even tried it at 200steps/mm and it’s accurate but it’s like nothing changed at all. I have a question though… after we change e-steps on the printer, do we have to make any adjustments to flow rate in Cura? For example, stock e-steps on the Ender 3 was 100steps/mm but now that it’s to 152 or whatever steps/mm, should I make that adjustment on Cura and set it to 152% flowrate or something? Cuz if so, then I gotta do that 
I’m still have serious inconsistent flow. That’s why I can’t even tell for sure if it’s under or over extrusion.
I’ll print out some single lines with screenshots of settings so you guys can see
What’s your slicer software? It kinda looks like you are printing with wrong nozzle size parameter.
Edit. Ah cura. No adjustment needed for e-step in Cura as far as I know
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Even when my esteps are dead on with caliper measurements, I always have to turn flow down on white filaments to 96-98%. Across the board, every brand. I also turn the temp down to the lower limits on whites. Usually 200-205°
You don’t have to change anything in cura to reflect estep change but on the machine, when you start that white print, go to tune, flow, and set it to 96% right when the print starts and see if it starts doing muuuuuch better.
I’ve personally found that setting your initial layer flow rate to ~98% in cura helps alleviate elephantitis foot.
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Exactly. Especially for the outer and top layer. Like I said before, esteps is an intermediate metric. You should get it right, but the most important metric is print quality and strength. I would say reduce flow% of the outer wall to 90%(I am taking it to an extreme for testing only) give it a print. If it still looks like shit the problem is somewhere else.
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Is it normal that some filament is oozing out the heat break
Just a tiny bit every time I clean it?
Just had to change nozzles today cause the old one was being annoying and now this is happening
@Jujo Yes, this could be the reason too. Or the nozzle has worn out. Actually, looking at the print, this seems more and more likely than overextrusion given that you have calibrated the esteps pretty well.
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No. You should tighten it a bit when it’s hot.
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