yeah this does happen from time to time. @Mawzie is your printer still under the manufacturer warranty? After you try all of the troubleshooting maybe you’ll be able to get them to send you a bed replacement.
One of the things about the SWX1 is that the bed heating is kind of inconsistent. Make sure the insulation underneath is all pressed up against the bottom of the bed too. When I got mine, one corner was starting to peel back. You will also likely be printing in the center area for most of the time, I don’t think my outer edges are exactly as close to my print head as my center, but if I need to print something really big, I’ll do a leveling right before the print to make sure.
Scraped the bed couple times, lol but it’s going. The corners are TIIGGHT. Gonna do a full print without messing with it and see how the centers look. From corner to corner it’s still a bit stringy.
Yes it’s under warranty, I got it like 8 days ago now.
I’m not sure what firmware your printer uses, but could you try manual mesh bed leveling? It basically accounts for any warp in the bed by measuring the bed height in multiple places to form a mesh. I’ve mostly seen it done using autoleveling systems like BLTouch, but it can be done manually as well.
Short of that, a cheap solution is a glass bed. Glass is almost always perfectly flat, and the bottom of the prints become perfectly smooth and shiny.
One bed solution I use is a piece of glass. Home Depot sells sheets 8.5” by 11” for 2 bucks. Should be even cheaper if you have a local glass shop and buy some cut scraps. The glass works if you put some glue stick or hair spray on it. (Limits the adhesion so you don’t shatter the glass on removal) If you buy some overture filament it’s comes with a build plate, I just stick that to the glass and I know I have a perfectly flat build plate.
Some other tips I have; To remove your print from the glass, let it heat up 40-60c and it makes it a lot easier. Also for ender 3 owners, change out your 4 bed springs. It’ll make it so it doesn’t go out of adjustment during or between prints like with the stock loose springs.
You shouldn’t need any glue or hairspray if you have a clean plate. I print exclusively on bare glass, and I’ve had no issues with adhesion except with PLA+, which needs to be printed real slow for the first layer so the corners don’t lift, but otherwise sticks after that.
Same with the stock bed springs on the Ender 3, I haven’t had to relevel my bed in months using the stock springs. Then again I never remove the print bed, so maybe it doesn’t get subject to as much forces or twisting of the bed.
Yeah, and then try to take ur 20Hr PETG print off the glass without the glass breaking. I shoulda clarified the glue is to promote proper adhesion so it’s not too strong but enough so that it still won’t warp off the build plate.
The ender springs seem fine until you have them next to some good springs. My bed wouldn’t ever go way out of whack, but enough that After 10 or so prints the first layer thickness would be a bit thinner or thicker
It’s good that you got it from Amazon, returns are easy.
But the thing is that all these cheaper printer need tinkering to some extent, varying from model to model and printer to printer. If tinkering and testing scares you, 3D printing with cheaper printer is not for you. Prusa might be a good option. They have insane quality control.
I was looking at the new MKS+ I think it’s called. While I don’t mind tinkering, I kinda felt like the bed was a little shot and since I scrubbed that coat off in corners figured just a full on replacement.
I print on bare glass as well almost exclusively petg, every few prints I clean with dish soap and water, wipe with iso before every print, after the bed cools the print is free from the glass on its own.
