So Im going to Direct drive my 3d cr10s [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32922611810.html?storeId=1654223&spm=2114.12010612.8148356.18.3be56018c80W9M] Also going to buy blt touch with it maybe.
Not sure what design to go with,
[https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Wqe5cSN0YP_VJ9aq2AHLdbNeF_549EJE?usp=sharing]
[ https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3241793]
[ https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3747412]
Help me choose please
Mine are flawless. CR10, PETG on a glass bed. 100% infill, very slow print speed for outter walls. 76c bed. Dont remove until cooled.
80 teeth HTD5 pulleys, created with openscad and fusion360.
I probably would not go direct drive on my cr 10, if I had to chose again. lots of fuckery is needed to get shit working properly.
I would go for a all metal hotted from micro Swiss or a v6 from e3d. and just get on with my life. the hours I have spent on piece of shit components and stupid/cheap upgrades is absurd. same shit goes for printers as with skateboards. buy cheap shit and you are often in for a headache.
that being said triangle labs from aliexpress is decent.
and I mean put your printer where your pet is not at and yank the printer up to 250 and you can print 910 just fine. maybe even get a Capricorn tube to make yourself feel a little better.
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I print mine with ABS. I’ll try PETG or even PLA just for testing. Maybe even will print on another printer I have. Can you share the pulley that you printed? Maybe the file I’m using is corrupted.
My abs pulleys werent the straightest, stuff loves to warp. PLA glass temp to low, the only downside of petg is the noise, belts are noisier running over it. My pulley is huge for a MTB. Heres where i got started.
Have you seen this thread?
well ya but that thing did not exist last year when I did all that. but sure the main things I struggled with was a semi broken bl-touch yanky connection to my wify through a raspberry pi and lack of memory on the main board. but yeah,
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Belts are nosier running over PETG? That’s very interesting. Any science behind this?
the surface is rougher than injection molded and nicely machined aluminum and more friction than printed nylon, just a wild guess.
Are you sure its not a teeth shape or miss alignment issue. that is honestly the only time where have noticed differences in sound between pulleys.
I think he meant that PETG makes more noise than ABS/PLA.
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Anyone got any recommendations for a glue stick?
Forget the glue stick, I have been using hairspray for the longest time and its very very good
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3D printer noob here.
I’m using an ender 3. Seems to be working fine untill the last month where the extruder stepper motor seems to skip/tick when pushing the filament into the bowden tube. I then bumped up my temp from 200 to about 240 and it made it better but it does skip once in awhile.
On that note, any recommended settings for PLA+?
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I’m on this! I had binding issues specifically with really rough filaments and really waxy filaments (both pla+). Normal, semi-matte feeling filaments print great (inland is my favorite and never ever has an issue).
Try using a 0.6 nozzle. I just switched from the stock 0.4 to a 0.6 and those filaments will bind/tick significantly less and still print fine. I have a good profile of settings I like to use I can send over shortly.
Thank you @mishrasubhransu for all the help again, he got me set up originally with this recipe.
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I see, i don’t have a smaller nozzle so off to ‘add to cart’ i go!
Should i spend a bit more and get a steel nozzle?
No brass is good, I think you need a larger nozzle. Ender 3 stock nozzle is 0.4mm. I recommend 0.6mm.
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Ender 3 Recommendations
The only paid upgrades I’ve done and consider necessary are:
glass bed from Amazon ~$20
metal extruder kit from Amazon ~$12
upgraded PTFE tube ~$13 for a length of it
Microswiss hotend only if you want to print fancy filaments like nylon
Everything else has been small 3d printed upgrades for convenience.
There’s a guy in YouTube whose channel is called teaching tech. His voice sucks but he does a lot of good ender 3 specific videos with good detail. Definitely do the bullseye fan upgrade. I recommend tightening the bed level springs almost all the way before starting the initial leveling. I’ve found it helped a lot with not having to re level all the time. Firstly tweak the Cura settings a bunch. It’s daunting, there are so many settings and lots of them are hidden by default. Here are some main ones I set:
Print Layer heights: 0.12, 0.18, 0.24, etc for a 0.6mm nozzle (increments in the diameter of your nozzle basically). I like 0.24 for speed, 0.18 for quality.
Infill pattern: cubic (changed to this because this supports the Z-axis more)
Print temp: 210-218C for most pla or pla+
Bed temp: 60C
Retraction Distance: 6.5mm, my other machine did better at 6.4mm (4mm for micro Swiss).
Retraction Speed: 25mm/s
Print speed: 60mm/s (or as per filament)
Combing mode: within infill (seems to get less artifacts on outside walls)
Find the setting for slowing down the print speed on the bottom layer. This one really helped my prints to stick better. I print the first 2 layers slow and first one with fan off for a good stick.
Ironing is a cool feature that makes all face up edges get a nice smoothing over. I turn that on with 10% flow for a clean finish.
When that glass bed cools, things don’t even pop off. They detach themselves.
I highly recommend you get the bondtech dual drive or it’s clone from triangle labs. Will never have extruder issues again. You can use it with your bowden setup.
If you are okay with little bit of electrical wiring and connection do the bondtech+direct drive setup. Nothing like it. You can print Nylon TPU and pretty much anything that you like.
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I second this.
Glue stick and pva glue should only be reserved for nylon. Because cleanup is not as easy.
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I use 210c on the extruder and 60c on the bed when printing with pla+
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