Are you safely ejecting the SD card every time?
I know the “safely remove hardware” thing in windows is pretty much vestigial at this point for most things (when’s the last time you lost data or borked something by not safely ejecting it?), but I’ve heard that 3d printer SD cards with text files (both config and gcode) are extra-susceptible to corruption this way for some reason.
4 Likes
Yep, I actually get super paranoid if I don’t safely eject it lol. Although it’s been done through the slicer, not the Windows’s safe eject. And afaik there’s no way to safely eject from a printer, right?
My ender3 has an option to dismount sd.
1 Like
Hmm I might’ve always just overlooked it then. I’ll have a look in the morning
I’ve just pre-ordered new prusa XL
https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-xl-2/
I really dig the tool change option. If this one serves me as good as mk3, I can’t see how it won’t become a new standard in 3d printing. It is a pricey peace of hardware, ecpecially 5 tool version.
6 Likes
Started on the plan to build a little support for these lads, looking for some sanity checks. Prints are done in PETG, I can do TPU as well if the flex would be better for impacts but I don’t think it would do as well with the small features.
I’m trying to keep clear of the bigish inductor on the near side in that pic. Any other obvious pitfalls to keep in mind?
1 Like
V1 I completely botched the dimensions so it’s irrelevant, V2 just had its supports removed now
edit: aaaand I made a mess of v2 as well. Good thing it’s like a 20 minute print. I made a large block and carved out a pocket to form the legs, and forgot that a drawing from the bottom would be flipped when it was right side up.
Also I haven’t checked the e-steps on my printer but it seems the dimensional accuracy is way off for models this small? I took some of the measurements for V2 by physically cutting down V1 after it was printed, but after it printed it (V2) came out too small so it seems the printer is being difficult
Edit 2:
V3 looks better and indeed fits faairly well, but as a result of bad measurements or bad machine cal the radius of the capacitor’s seat is just a little too small.
2 Likes
Why not print it standing up? Should use less support and give you a much smoother curve for the cap.
2 Likes
ah I hadn’t thought of that. When I run it through Prusa it actually generates a slower print, with what looks like more support material. When I paint on custom supports it’s still a minute or two slower, though this might be to do with more Z moves rather than more material.
You’re right on the curve, but I don’t think it’s that important
Success! Sort of… Looks like the design fits capacitors for 2 phases, and I need a different one for the third that sits on top of the connectors. I’m also working on a support for the corner of the board that’s otherwise unsupported
4 Likes
Tried again and decided it was a good idea to pause the print to answer a phone call. The ender did not agree so we’ve got failed print number 2
2 Likes
Looks better than the first one tho. I think it might have finished OK had it not been interrupted.
1 Like
Yup after a couple more basic mistakes, another attempt got 90% of the way there before losing bed adhesion because it’s a bit too tall and narrow. I think I’m gonna use that sort of failed print though because it functions fine and the tip won’t be visible
1 Like
A brim would probably solve that issue, and they’re generally not that much hassle to remove.
I usually leave brims on by default, since they don’t take up that much extra time or material, but save iffy prints pretty reliably. Helps with warping as well.
6 Likes
I’m trying to make an annoyingly big riser as a stop gap until some bigger wheels get here and was wondering about these tactics for wasting less material. I intend to use 96A TPU but if I’ve misunderstood I could use PETG instead
- Go for this version with material removed that’s further from the screw holes
- Print with all the material there in the model, but a lower infill
- oh this just occurred to me as I was uploading the pics, what about trying to mess with topology optimisation in Fusion or something? I might actually try that just for fun
Why chamfer the bolt holes? Won’t they be up against the deck anyway?
1 Like
yeah there’s no huge reason, I think it was partly to guide the screw in if I was a little out of alignment and partly because I was just chamfering everything (the big cutout came after and I didn’t go back and add it to that)
1 Like
Higher wall count will help reinforce the bolt holes. Don’t skimp on infill when it’s a crucial failure point. I’d print that at no less than 85% infill and would do 95% if it were me.
2 Likes
Sounds good thanks, any thoughts on the material removed from the middle of the model? I know the bolts are the source of a lot of the compression but the load is spread through two big plates on either side so I can’t tell if it’s efficient or just asking for trouble