I use the reusable packets.
As far as containers, ziploc weathershield boxes or look for airtight pet food containers on amazon.
I have a large ziploc box that holds about 14 rolls and a dog food container that I can print right out of that holds two rolls.
I store all of my filament at 10% RH in a dry box that has nothing but desiccant. I even print from those containers
I’ve never had an issue with wet filament. Heat will definitely speed up the process, but it’s not a requirement. With the exception of nylon and a few others, most are fine to use for a long print and then store.
$159 ender 3 on black friday
Does anyone have any experience with Brass inserts in TPU?
It works very well.
Nice deal I used today for you 3D printing aficionados
any of you 3d printing nerds that use 3d printing for eskate ever find your prints suffering from “pull through” on heavily torqued parts? left example:
What I’ve found, using Cura, is that you can use the "Support Blocker, in combination with “Per Model Selection” tabs to vary number of walls and infill.
For example I put in a “Support Blocker”, and using scale and translate tabs move the “Blocker” to the appropriate location.:
What I’ve done in this “Example” is the model base printing configuration was set at 4 perimeters 100% infill yielding this:
and in the "Per Model Tab, I change perimeters to 0 and infill still at 100%. the “Support Blocker” in this example is 1mm from the bottom and 1 mm thick, so I get the above profile for 1mm, then this for 1mm:
Then back to the base model settings, using this tool you can get models where the layer lines don’t line up exactly, and the model is stitched together. The left hand example has bolt pull through and was printed without using this strategy, and the right example I used this tip with zero push/pull through , also you can visually see the right example was used much, much more, and was acetone vapor smoothed 1/2 way through it’s expected lifespan
hope this helps, I use this type of strategy for all types of difficult printing situations.
What do you guys use to clean off the glue stick or hairspray from a glass print bed?
Isopropyl alcohol
Thanks. Tried last night. Was not really coming off. Do you clean it with a hot or cold bed? How often do you clean it? And how often do you apply glue/hairspray?
So to preface, i have an ultrabase. Not sure how that changes anything, but ive attempted to be very careful as to not ruin the finish on it.
I like to clean it with a cold bead, but have also done it with a hot bed. I like to clean it after every time i use it. Since i have an ultrabase, i try to not use glue/hairspray too often, but i tend to use it when i have first layer problems, which doesnt seem to have a regular pattern.
Have you tried the painters tape method?
Have not tired painters tape. I have the Artillery Sidewinder X1. It has a textured glass bed. I have first layer issues but it sticks very well and when it cools, the print falls right off. Using the glue, no first layer issues. Maybe I just need to lower the bed a little bit more.
My bed right now is just covered in glue, so the prints stick too good. Just wanted to clean it all off to see the difference.
For hair spray the layer should be really thin and don’t apply every single time. Just spray alcohol before you start printing.
For glue stick, put a damp cloth. And let it soften the PVA. And wipe it off.
You don’t really need glue on a glass surface for PLA. Just make sure it’s clean.
From what it sounds like, if you’re having first layer issues, go back and level your bed. Try printing with a brim.
Just cleaned the crap out of the print bed and raised the bed a bit. Did a print and first layer looked good. Will see how it turns out.
On another note. I have been printing only pla. I want to switch to PETG. I have a glass bed, I heard sometimes petg really sticks to the glass and could ruin the bed. Anyone have experience with petg and glass bed?
Basically you need a thin layer of something to prevent PETG from sticking to bare glass. Hair spray works really well.
Yup it should be fine (disclaimer Ive moved to using flexible PEI sheets for my build surface but used to use glass for a long time). Spraying windex on the surface can help insure the part comes free without taking some of the build surface with it. If having adhesion issues try raising first layer bed temp or correct leveling and z height calibration.
I have an ultrabase too and didn’t ever use any additional stuff for adhesion (PLA, ASA, PETG), in fact it is bad for the ultrabase, you shouldn’t use hairspray and stuff.
When you have first layer issues that is most likely related to bad leveling, too low bed temperature or a too thin initial line width. For example I have the bed at 90 degrees Celsius for PETG and it sticks like hell until cooled down. I highly recommend a (manual or auto) 25 point mesh leveling, that will account for concave or convex bed surfaces.
Not really having bed level or first layer issues. Just needed glue to help it stick. But after cleaning bed and raising it a bit, it is sticking perfect. Below is the print that just came off. View is the side facing the bed. Nervous to do petg on this glass. Will probably do a small print first to test if it sticks too well.
I print PLA and PETG directly to heated glass (square mirror tiles in my case). I wipe the glass clean with 99% IPA and paper towels between prints. Once the bed cools, parts pop off easily. I’ve only ever had glass chunks come off when using hairspray w/ ABS and PVA glue w/ Nylon, especially when trying to cool the parts too fast to get them off.
As echoed above, first layer is critical. I moved to a BL Touch knock-off about a year ago and my first layers have been flawless. This is where I got mine
3D Touch from Trianglelab
