Good to know, thanks
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@Venom121212 I have an heavily moded alfawise u30pro, but somehow it seems to have gotten parallelism issue over time, it was working all fine for arround two years and now I canât print a thing, and the autolevelling is all messy, do you know how to troubleshoot this kind of issue ?
I know youâve had a fucktone of fdm printers
Iâd go through with a right angle framing square and make sure everything is perpendicular and parallel on the machine side first.
I know itâs not but I donât know how to fix it : like the y axis which goes up and down between the two z bars is definitly lower on one side than the other but reassembling the frame doesnât help.
Maybe the wheels are worn out ?
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Ok Iâm with you.
So each set of the brackets should have 3 wheels grabbing on the rail. Check with your hand and see if they are spinning freely at all. If they are, you need to tighten the hex spacer part (beside the wheel) until they are all grabbing smoothly. This hex spacer part is called an eccentric nut and helps align the bearing wheels with the frame.
Give this a go and let me know where youâre at
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I did tighten everyone of them already and it helped but not much
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If youâve already reassembled the frame and are sure itâs 100% square, then the last thing I would check is the lead screw. When you turn it by hand, does it move the hotend gantry up and and down smoothly?
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It does the problem is, even with all the screw as tight as possible thereâs play : I still can tilt the Y bar a few degree on the non motored side, Iâll make a video tonight. I tried to ad a second z motor but I dinât have the rigth sized plate to fit it and canât print it in the state the printer is
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You were perfectly right and I had no f***ing idea such a thing existed, I would never have understood this unless Iâve read your answer again and look on the internet for the excentric nut.
The idea of it is philosophically just too much XD like âwe know it wonât be fitting just right so letâs make a weird thingy to play on the angle of the screw so it will be tighterâ x)
Thank you sir, I owe you one
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No problem at all! Glad you got it sorted out
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Iâll soon get a digital inclusion voucher for 150EUR to spend. One of the eligible items to spend it on are 3D printers. I have no experience with them or with 3D design. Iâve been looking at Ender 3 V2 or Ender 3 S1 on this Slovenian website: https://www.3djake.com/creality-3d-printers-spare-parts/ender-3-s1.
Ender 3 S1: 440 EUR
Ender 3 V2: 252 EUR
Which of these would you recommend? Should I look into other printers?
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Depends if you need direct drive or not. Will you be printing with tpu or any other flexible filaments? Thatâs pretty much the only difference other than the extruder being dual geared.
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Would this printer be suitable to print a pulley if i needed to (kegel)? I guess Iâd use nylon for that?
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It claims it can reach that temp and I see no reason it shouldnât be able to. Nylon is crazy bad about absorbing moisture so you may want to look into the issues related to that first.
RIP Creality CR10 Smart. This was a great 3D printer, and when it worked it work well although itâs gone to heaven and is getting replaced under warranty. Iâm not keen on getting another one as the CR10 Smart had many quirks and proved to be unreliable.
So now Iâm tossing up between a Creality Ender 3 S1 or Artillery Sidewinder X2. Build volume aside Iâd be keen to know what way folks here would swing.
- Creality Ender 3 S1
- Artillery Sidewinder X2
0 voters
(photo of first 3d print made by friend on his sapphire pro with 0 knowledge and stock cura slicer)
i making custom big 3D printers with ultra high heat heated chambers
so i can tell u few things
Go with sapphire pro
pro-bably the best 3D printer for upgrades and avesome quality
out of the box have linear rails etc , rly good quality of prints and works in core xy
DONT U DARE BUY ENDER 3 etc ⌠printers where bed move in Y or X axis
sapphire pro after SUPER EASY upgrades âŚu just repleace parts for the same ones but high quality
PTFE pipe for " capricorn PTFE " , hotend repleace for e3d v6 (can use clone) buy âbore heatbreakâ for it and bondtech cht nozzle
then bondtech gears for extruder
3d print anti vooble Z axis spacer
solder better wires for heatbed (high quality ones)
repleace bed springs to just screews and nuts
no springs no movement when printing = better quality
more advanced upgrades
better power supply
external mosfet for heatbed
better heatbed ( 230V ac ones works great (or 110v depend where u live) )
if u want heated chamberâŚjust mount some cardboard to the frame XD
u can go with anything , if u want to go âexpertâ u can use some steel / aluminium and glue to it some heat shield (the ones for protecting plastic arount the exhaust that already have glue on the back side)
and u have printer that have quality of 2500$ printers for just 400-500$
its good to find used ones because modification i write above will make used printer into a new one after upgrade because this is just like maintenance but where u put better quality parts not just repleace them with the stock ânewâ crap
alternative is
4max pro
the only one possible upgrade in it is to use capricorn ptfe + bondtech cht nozzle and it is more for petg / abs not for pla etc (need extra fan for better cooling
pro tip
if u set right steps per mm of extruder
and set up correctly slicer
almost every printer should work fine out of the box
every time u touch the bed clean it or print will all the time wont stick to it
extruder retraction should be around
direct 1mm +/- and 25-30mms speed
bowden 3.5-4.5mm (or less if capricorn) and 70mms + (longer = faster but not so fast that extruder cant keep up)
best nozzle for beginers - non clog one - is 0.6mm
average bronze nozzle can output max 12mm3s
bondtech cht almost 30mm3s
steel more like 8mm3s
abrasive filament = only steel nozzle or ruby / tungsten etc
190C isnt good temp for pla if u print fast and want a strong parts
its more for slow detail prints
210C is a way to go for strenght - impact resistant pla can work easly as gears for belt drive in 3-4kw mtb 
petgâŚcrack easly
abs ⌠not so easy to print
nylon ⌠forget about it , u dont have printer for itâŚeven pla will be stronger
pctg⌠yup u want it its like abs , petg and nylon in 1 but easier to print yet not so stiff
wood , carbon , glassfibre , kevlar and more of abrasive = STEEL NOZZLE or better
anything with it works on any 3d printer because of fibers they hold shape and layers mostly better
but in the same time they are more brittal than non fiber versions and not as strong âŚonly stiffer and sometimes they work like sandpaper in contact of each other (not for gears)
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Lol this is quite the confusing / interesting wall of text
Looks like this printer is a little hard to get right now, but itâs a cheap corexy machine
Then you mentioned like $600 bucks of upgrades, so weâre at like ~1200 after shipping
About the filaments, not sure what youâre going for there but alright lol, some of itâs true
No no
The upgrades u want and need are more like 100$ or less
To make it simple
U need âptfe capricorn tubeâ , good quality nozzle , print anti vooble spacer and buy oryginal bondtech gears for the extruder (because it use chineese ones out of crap that fail all the time)
And make sure stock wiring is made properly no loose connection (thats why i say to repleace the bed wires and weld them)
All possibile mods with new motherboard ,motor drivers ,power supply etc should cost less than 300$
But they change this printer into a avesome one
Yet this mods can be applied to any 3d printer
Only sapphire is best because it have proper linear rails and not the rollers like other printers
Solder the wires " âŚi shouldnt write right after i go out of the bed 
U dont need to change everything
Only this few parts for less than 100$
Everything else is âextraâ and dont impact the quality of print