3d printed wedges. Will they hold?

Will they hold? Or am I going to die

Abs filiment btw

https://photos.app.goo.gl/CxgugGiVCGvQvcse6!

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You be fine for small wedges like that. Cheaper than buying wedges!

I wouldn’t trust 3d printed MTB wedges though, too much angle for 3d print to support.

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I’m 260 lbs. But pretty sure I’ll be fine it’s not like the bolts are going to share I’m sure I could wedge enough Kleenex under there and McMillan wedge if we really needed. But, I’m always open to constructive criticism

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I don’t really see what could break. That looks pretty sturdy

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Well. I’ve never 3d printed. My first print.

Actually my first was a dildo with Darth Vader as a head

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No one ever has a useful first print

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How do you imagine it’ll fail if it does, and do you think you’ll be okay? Not trolling, but this is what I think about before making the call.

Imo it’ll be fiiiiiine.

Pla will deform over time so tighten the screws once a while.

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Don’t print them out of ABS. If you print with TPU - specifically the harder duro versions like Sainsmart TPU they will be just as good as the ones you can buy. Then you adjust infill based on how much shock absorbtion you would like.

Please keep in mind that not all 3D printers will be able to print TPU. If you have a bowden setup then you may have troubles but I’d say that Sainsmart will most likely give you the best results regardless.

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I think @dani prints his YoBi bindings at 60% infill with 2mm walls and that seems to be plenty strong for that application, so I’m guessing it would probably be good for wedges too. He even has some wedges that he designed, so I’d trust whatever he says would work.

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Would you like to redact this statement?

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They’ll be fine worst case they get crushed and your ride gets mushy (PLA doesn’t work by the way long term). TPU or nylon are surer bets but more difficult to print with PETG is a nice middle ground easier to print than ABS (less warping off the bed for big parts) and not as brittle as PLA. Prusa makes a lot of mk3 parts out of PETG and seems to stand the test of time.

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My petg risers have held up.

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I’ve been using pla+ wedges for a couple years here with no issues, 100% infill I’m pretty sure or close too but haven’t had any issues.

That being said it doesn’t get much warmer than 30C regularly, so I’m sure that might have something to do with it

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Warm and humid environments will eventually kill pla. I just prefer TPU as it’s a shock absorber too.

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Care to share some files or wedge heights/ files

kevingraehl@gmail.com

Yah sorry should clarify that I was using a hollowed out riser with lights in it. So shouldn’t have said it won’t work but unless the printer is well tuned etc. not sure I would trust it as much. Also heat does cause it to become very warped if the pla part is under pressure over time.

High infill will help here though for sure in any case, I did some abs ones at 50% and have survived moving a couple decks.

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ABS would be my first choice to use.
PETG would also work, but it just starts deforming a bit lower temp.

PLA both starts deforming at a temp you could easily see in the heat of a summer day, and it slowly deforms under constant load. They wouldn’t break or anything, but would likely find your bolts not staying tight as well.

TPU I’d say no to. The effect as a shock absorber is really not enough to bother about, and only introduced more problems IMO. Plus the temperature TPU can deform at is low as well.

Hollow prints with infill should be fine so long as you have a good number of perimeters, I’d like to see a solid column of support around the bolt holes. I’d use a simple infill like grid, not a 3 dimensional infill like cubic or gyroid since the only thing that really matters is compressive strength.

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