3D-Printed Pneumatic Rims For Win and Fitment | Wheels | Hubs

How-Tos & Esk8 mechanics
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#61

Yes.

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#62

Exactly.

(ALL OF THEM :rage:) :man_shrugging:

Please? :innocent:

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#63

I’m interested in those alignment tips and pics!!, Also want to know how to make the “border” of the rim more durable, so it doesn’t break when I pump up the pressure.

1 Like
#64

[quote=“javand, post:62, topic:44128, full:true”]

Note that the 8" rims are from before I started designing the 10" tire rims, so they are a little less developed/refined, as what I had learned from them, I applied to the 10" rims.

All designs use M5x60 bolts to hold the two halves together. Wheel pulley is mounted with M4 hardware. And the bolt pattern for the wheel pulley mounting are custom. I printed the rims with 100% infill.

Note that these are all live versions of the .stl files in my google drive so they can be updated/changed or removed at any time. All files are provided “AS IS”, I don’t take any responsibility if someone uses these models to print them and then subsequently get hurt while using them.

I don’t mind you using them if you change them to fit your own setup, but I would appreciate if you’d link this thread about where you got the original models from, if you post about yours.

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8" rims, 6301 bearing:

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8" rims, 6001 bearing:

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10 inch rims, 6001 bearing:

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The "BIG ONE", 5.3kWh BMW i3-module battery trailer build
#65

What a legendary post man. Thanks for sharing your hard work!!
:heart_eyes:

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#66

10 inch rim question. What’s with the internal lip? Removable material?

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#67

To promote adhesion to print surface, remove after printing

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#68

Are these tried and tested 10 inches? You’re tempting me but a brand new Lonestar supersport isn’t quite a board I wanna see kissing the ground

Also, what filament would work best?

1 Like
#69

Not field tested yet. Waiting for more filament at the moment.

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#70
1 Like
#71

I’ve been using the cheapest PLA I can find. AmazonBasics or Hobbyking PLA in this case.

If you want to lighten the rims, then you could reduce the amount of filament needed by reducing the size of the geometry (spoke width for example) and/or use a stronger filament with better mechanical properties like ABS.

EDIT:
That being said, the geometry for the 10" is not field tested yet, so…

2 Likes
#72

Or this. Courtesy of @Venom121212

Very impressive work on these wheels. Really appreciate the time you’ve put into these and making the files available for us to play with. I think I’m gonna have to fire up my Ender3 again and try some of these in PETG.

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#73

This stuff has been printing really well for me. Slightly better than inland/esun even.

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#74

Dang that is cheap! I’ll have to check their EU selection.

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#75

Awesome thanks man! I’m just gonna play with them, I’ll post my results here, along with any changes etc. Won’t publish them elsewhere.

I’ve been making high SFPM contact wheels for metal abrasive belt grinding using solid higher durometer TPU with excellent results, so that’s where I’m going with this. I think there’s a sort of “oh it’s “flexible” so obviously that wont work” preconception about TPU, but if the right material is used, at 100% infill, it’s stiff enough to be structural, but will outperform most other polymers in durability because of the insane layer adhesion and having just enough flexibility for extreme forces to still be within the elastic deformation range.

Every one of the contact wheels I’ve made have been exceeding cast PU in both temperature and tear performance, destruction testing almost never failing on layer lines when the print setup is right.

May not work for the wheels (although tires obviously a possibility) without some geometry tweaking, but I’ve already been testing some PU printed drive gears with excellent results thus far.

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#76

:thinking:

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#77

What’s the filament consumption for these? Mbs wheels aren’t exactly expensive at 15$ a piece, but I too do love to diy and print things just because I can.

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#78

I have this idea kinda stuck in my head now to make a CNC lathe designed expressly to finish machining wheel hubs that may have been printed. The goal would be to take them to very specific dimensions so they could be fiberglassed then the same machine would finish the dimensions again after the fiberglassing step.

The reason making a CNC machine for this job makes sense is the size of wheel hubs we use, even on the largest end like a 6" x 6 go kart hub is still fairly small even compared to the 3D printer that would have printed the parts that will be machined on it. Small size = short linear rails = affordable. Also the main rotation would be powered by a regular Esk8 parts.

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#79

I haven’t read the whole thread, but an early prototype (the second one to explode) massed about 210 grams all bolted together with no bearings.

A few percent of that is the bolts, but let’s round it to say 200 grams per wheel.
A nice roll of filament runs between $20 and $50+ per kilo, so that’s five wheels per spool, or between $4 and $10+ per wheel.
If you used CF-nylon or something else more exotic that could increase the price to $20/wheel or more.

2 Likes
The "BIG ONE", 5.3kWh BMW i3-module battery trailer build
#80

Currently printing the rims after getting the new filament yesterday.

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I wouldn’t bother too much with the very early prototypes, as they weren’t sturdy enough to survive just pressure pump up.

The 8" rims were roughly 4 complete rims per 1kg PLA spool with 100% infill and the 10" rims are 2 complete rims from 1kg PLA spool.

7 Likes