3D Printed Deck Design [In Progress]


I am trying to design my own 3D Printed Electric Skateboard. I got a super cool internship with a 3D Printing company and so this is going to be my big project this summer before school at the University of Washington in the fall. I have been stalking these forums for the past few weeks or so and I have accumulated a whole notebook full of notes on other builds. I am finally ready to share with you what I have been working on!

The Design:

This design has space for (4) 5s LiPo batteries and an ESC. I will start with two batteries in series to make a 10s board, but I can upgrade the range by adding a second pair and connecting the two pairs in parallel. The bottom cover is not shown. Also, I need to add a balance charger but I haven’t quite decided which one to buy or where to put it. [Help!]

(More Pictures Below)

My Needs:

  • 3D Printed (Durability before Flexibility)
  • Powerful (Torque before Speed)
  • Easy to Use

Above all else, I am trying to make a 3D Printed longboard. Making it electric is purely for fun so that I dont have to walk to class every day next year. It is rainy in seattle and there are lots of hills, so I would like the design to be as self-contained and waterproof as possible. I do not have a ton of money to spend on this project: my budget is $350. If you see any parts that I have that I could find elsewhere for cheaper (with the same quality), then please let me know. I want it to be flexible and have a smooth ride, but I would rather have a ridgid board that works than a broken elastic board. I have a solid amount of soldering experience and can handle that work if it comes to that. I like to work with my hands and would rather build something than just buy it so I figure I am in the right place.

The Build:

  • Caliber Trucks Cal II 50° RKP Longboard Trucks
  • Cal 7 90mm 78A Cruiser Longboard Flywheel
  • 3D Printed Pulley/Gear System
  • Hobylord 6374 170KV Brushless Sensored Motor
  • VESC FSESC V4.12 50A
  • 2x Turnigy 5000mAh 5S 20C LiPo Batteries

The full list of parts and cost can be found here (total cost around $400):

3D Printing:

My secondary goal with designing this board is that anyone with a standard, desktop 3D Printer (200x200x200mm build volume) can download these designs and print it themself. The problem is that the board is (almost exactly) 1 meter long and will not fit. So I would have to break up the board into 5 or 6 sections and then either run a steel rod or two down the length of the board or figure out a way to dovetail these pieces together so that they remain strong enough to support a 70kg (155lb) rider.

If that doesn’t work, I could also customize a printer that I am already making/rebuilding to have the build volume that can print the whole board in one piece (I would just have to extend the rails on my 3D Printer).

Nunchuck Remote:

I have an old Wii Nunchuck that I am not using, I tore it apart and I was thinking of using it as my remote because I like the feel of it better in my hand. That being said I would have to somehow get it to communicate with a VESC (obviously not the one listed above). I have some old nRF24l01 Wireless Transciever chips that I could use with an Arduino/ATMega, and maybe that could work?. I read somewhere that people have done it before the explanation was shaky.

If someone is out there who knows about how to use a nunchuck to communicate with an electric skateboard, please let me know! I would love to have a discussion about this topic in the comments.

Final Thoughts:

Thank you for reading through this, I really appreciate everything this community has taught me so far, and I look forward to discussing my project with you!


Justin Shaw


A couple if things…

  1. Don’t dovetail the pieces, it won’t hold with multiple sections, not long term. Get 3/8 all-thread and run a piece it even 2 all the way through the deck with nuts/settings in both ends.

  2. Get a mini remote, they are 20 bucks and a really stable. They aren’t exactly sexy, but they work flawlessly.

  3. I’ve got 2 5s 5k mAh loops, already wired in series, you can have them just pay shipping. Maybe that will free up some cash for the stuff
    You should prolly get a 10s bms instead of a balance charger. It makes life a lot easier.

  4. PM some vendors with a parts list. It’s likely that most will have parts that are scratched or they just tested with that will let go really cheap.

Holler if you need help.


Wait doesn’t that mean unlimited power? :stuck_out_tongue:

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I’d be careful about the 3d printing of a deck. I know it’s possible, but the abuse it our decks take when riding is second to none. If you are going to 3d print it, i would be careful.

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I would see if you can fit some 15x15mm square tube inside the prints for added safety incase it cracks in half when you hit a big bump.

Also print layers should be parallel to the ground, I think that will give better strength.


Maybe after 3d printing, wrap it in CF for strength


absolute best thing i ever did to my xcarve. If your printer uses maker rails, it should be dead easy.

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Or carbon tube, see @dani’s work

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@ThouShawNotPass Any chance you still have your Nunchuck mod?