3D Printed Deck Design [In Progress]

Hello!

I am trying to design my own 3D Printed Electric Skateboard. I got a super cool internship with a 3D Printing company and so this is going to be my big project this summer before school at the University of Washington in the fall. I have been stalking these forums for the past few weeks or so and I have accumulated a whole notebook full of notes on other builds. I am finally ready to share with you what I have been working on!

The Design:


This design has space for (4) 5s LiPo batteries and an ESC. I will start with two batteries in series to make a 10s board, but I can upgrade the range by adding a second pair and connecting the two pairs in parallel. The bottom cover is not shown. Also, I need to add a balance charger but I haven’t quite decided which one to buy or where to put it. [Help!]

(More Pictures Below)

My Needs:

  • 3D Printed (Durability before Flexibility)
  • Powerful (Torque before Speed)
  • Easy to Use

Above all else, I am trying to make a 3D Printed longboard. Making it electric is purely for fun so that I dont have to walk to class every day next year. It is rainy in seattle and there are lots of hills, so I would like the design to be as self-contained and waterproof as possible. I do not have a ton of money to spend on this project: my budget is $350. If you see any parts that I have that I could find elsewhere for cheaper (with the same quality), then please let me know. I want it to be flexible and have a smooth ride, but I would rather have a ridgid board that works than a broken elastic board. I have a solid amount of soldering experience and can handle that work if it comes to that. I like to work with my hands and would rather build something than just buy it so I figure I am in the right place.

The Build:

  • Caliber Trucks Cal II 50° RKP Longboard Trucks
  • Cal 7 90mm 78A Cruiser Longboard Flywheel
  • 3D Printed Pulley/Gear System
  • Hobylord 6374 170KV Brushless Sensored Motor
  • VESC FSESC V4.12 50A
  • 2x Turnigy 5000mAh 5S 20C LiPo Batteries

The full list of parts and cost can be found here (total cost around $400):

3D Printing:

My secondary goal with designing this board is that anyone with a standard, desktop 3D Printer (200x200x200mm build volume) can download these designs and print it themself. The problem is that the board is (almost exactly) 1 meter long and will not fit. So I would have to break up the board into 5 or 6 sections and then either run a steel rod or two down the length of the board or figure out a way to dovetail these pieces together so that they remain strong enough to support a 70kg (155lb) rider.

If that doesn’t work, I could also customize a printer that I am already making/rebuilding to have the build volume that can print the whole board in one piece (I would just have to extend the rails on my 3D Printer).

Nunchuck Remote:

I have an old Wii Nunchuck that I am not using, I tore it apart and I was thinking of using it as my remote because I like the feel of it better in my hand. That being said I would have to somehow get it to communicate with a VESC (obviously not the one listed above). I have some old nRF24l01 Wireless Transciever chips that I could use with an Arduino/ATMega, and maybe that could work?. I read somewhere that people have done it before the explanation was shaky.

If someone is out there who knows about how to use a nunchuck to communicate with an electric skateboard, please let me know! I would love to have a discussion about this topic in the comments.

Final Thoughts:

Thank you for reading through this, I really appreciate everything this community has taught me so far, and I look forward to discussing my project with you!

Thanks,

Justin Shaw

4 Likes

A couple if things…

  1. Don’t dovetail the pieces, it won’t hold with multiple sections, not long term. Get 3/8 all-thread and run a piece it even 2 all the way through the deck with nuts/settings in both ends.

  2. Get a mini remote, they are 20 bucks and a really stable. They aren’t exactly sexy, but they work flawlessly.

  3. I’ve got 2 5s 5k mAh loops, already wired in series, you can have them just pay shipping. Maybe that will free up some cash for the stuff
    You should prolly get a 10s bms instead of a balance charger. It makes life a lot easier.

  4. PM some vendors with a parts list. It’s likely that most will have parts that are scratched or they just tested with that will let go really cheap.

Holler if you need help.

4 Likes

Wait doesn’t that mean unlimited power? :stuck_out_tongue:

1 Like

I’d be careful about the 3d printing of a deck. I know it’s possible, but the abuse it our decks take when riding is second to none. If you are going to 3d print it, i would be careful.

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I would see if you can fit some 15x15mm square tube inside the prints for added safety incase it cracks in half when you hit a big bump.

Also print layers should be parallel to the ground, I think that will give better strength.

2 Likes

Maybe after 3d printing, wrap it in CF for strength

2 Likes

absolute best thing i ever did to my xcarve. If your printer uses maker rails, it should be dead easy.

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Or carbon tube, see @dani’s work

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@ThouShawNotPass Any chance you still have your Nunchuck mod?