3D Printed Boosted Board Killer

YOUTUBE VIDEO ABOUT THE PROJECT
(due to censorship and other builders being banned, from builders forum I moved the thread to here)

I love the Boosted Boards but wanted something more, so I created and designed this amazing 5000W almost completely 3D Printed electric Longboard. Check out my Video about it if you want to learn more!
This Thing combines everything I ever wanted from a good electric Longboard:

  • Amazing Remote
  • Flexy Deck for smooth ride
  • High Power
  • Fast Charging
  • Smart BMS
  • Nice Remote with percise and smooth control and great features
  • Somewhat Waterproof
  • Reliable

THINGIVERSE FILES AND CAD

PRE-CHARGE ANTI-SPARK SCHEMATIC

FIREFLY REMOTE MODDED FIRMWARE GitHub

Specs:

  • 5000W Power
  • Peak 12Nm per Wheel (Dual Drive)
  • 36Km Range
  • 388Wh Battery
  • 9,5Kg weight
  • 40Km of Range per Hour charging
  • Board Loaded Vanguard Flex 3 (same as Boosted Board V2 Deck)

Battery:

  • 3D Printed BatteryCase that can be easily removed and swapped
  • Hidden flat copper cables for clean look
  • 12S3P 18650 Samsung 30Q Battery Maximum Discharge per Cell: 35A peak
  • SMART Bluetooth BMS I made a Video about it Smart BMS sounds awesome and it is!
  • Pre charge Anti Spark that doesnt destroy itself, every other Anti Spark died on me You need to precharge the capacitors of the vesc to have a reliable system (link to schematic is above)
  • XT60 for charging
  • 10mm hole for on off switch

VESC Case:

  • 3D Printed Vesc Case
  • 2x esk8.de hellray VESCs 4.12 with direct Fets on FW 3.4
  • Added a 600W TVS Diode (P6KE56CA). Almost NO VESC except the Focbox and a few others have a TVS Diode!
  • YOUR VESC WILL DIE ON 12S WITHOUT ONE! It saves your vesc against high Voltage trancients (I have a pile of dead vescs and repaired a few, trust me!) How to Install one on your vesc and more details in my video! I used the P6KE56CA
  • Arduino Nano with NRF24L01 controlling the VESC over UART

Drivetrain:

  • 3D Printed Motor Guards for front and back, makes them practically waterproof
  • 3D Printed Wheel Pulleys (currently 38T)
  • 2x TorqueBoard 6355 190Kv Motors (run them on 70A because airflow is restricted by the splash guards) !!dont recommend the Motors, magnets need to be glued, more info in my video!!
  • 12mm Belts
  • MBS All Terrain 100mm Wheels
  • 15T gears on my Motor

Remote:

  • FireFly Remote
  • Modded the Firmware heavily, many Features added, full list on my GitHub (linked above) Things like Battery Bar, Action Based information, Km and Energy tracker, full UART Support etc etc. Currently made it for Vesc FW 3.4 Works great!

Current Km state of this Board 1300Km, still works great!! Hope you like it :smile:

14 Likes

It doesn’t work with Android Pie anymore :sob: so keep an old phone around

2 Likes

Good to see you here around!:grin: Awsome build btw.!

2 Likes

wow really?? have you downloaded the newest version from lithiumbatterypcb.com ? they published a new version a few months ago

What exactly is the problem? Cant you install it anymore?

1 Like

Aww man idk how I missed that lol. You just made my day!
Idk if it there wasn’t a newer app download when I last checked or if I just clicked in the old download link.

Been just using them for over a year and they are worth every penny!

Thanks so much again!

1 Like

I’m building my first DIY board. What power switch did you use?

Where i have to place the tvs

del
just like this, you should also add the EEUFR1J681L a great low ESR cap that dampens the current ripples if you want to run 10S and above since I see you have the really cheap vesc with quite bad capacitors

1 Like

I use a voltage of 6s.It is a Flipsky Vesc 4.12.I will replace the capacitors.

so do you have any shops near germany or in europe to get good parts? any recommendations?

flipsky currently has 6354 190KV 2450W on sale for motors

@Pryside
Hey man . I finally finished building it and OMG this thing is a beast. It can climb any hill. I just have one strange issue. The board sometimes shuts off. I can fix it by powering it off with the switch and turning it back on after a few seconds.
I lose power to the VESCs and the receiver. I have checked the BMS app and it shows no errors on the battery. Maybe the antispark switch is doing something strange. Do you have any clues?

One more thing, I want to put larger wheels on it to make it off-road. Any recommendations for the wheels?

1 Like

Hey Leo Pryside
I have found mosfets like the IRFS7530-7PPBF and the IRFB3006PBF .The datasheet says that the mosfets have a maximum Gate to Source voltage of 20V.Can I power the Anti Spark with a voltage of 25,2V with fully charged battery(6S) and 18-19V when discharge??

There you go:


I know him and he’s a good guy.

I havent opened a Shopsite yet but will do that soon. If you want to buy a Pre Chage Antispark from me just write me pryside.business@gmail.com

Price is 40€ incl. Shipping

It can easily handle 130A Peak (10 seconds) and around 60A constant

Its rated for 60V max (12S)

Have friends excessively test it already on eBoards and I have benchmarked it hard on my eBike with a 150A Battery Amps Controller and it works perfectly. :slight_smile:

Sry for the late response, that can be caused by many things. Maybe your vesc is getting an error, I really dont know. Make sure your wiring is more than secure, loose Uart Wiring can be fatal.

I personally use MTB All Terrain 100mm… But they get really slippery on wet roads. And I often have traction issues with them. Would try out rubber wheels in the future.

Are you diy6boards from insta? because he also built my setup. Post some pics of your board, would love to see that :smiley:

Hi, thanks for contributing! I’m currently building your E Board and Im struggeling how you wired the battery. Did you just put them together horizontal, no soldering? In the video you cannot clearly see this. Maybe you can provide a wiring diagram?
Best Regards

its hard to build, just build it like a normal battery on the table 6x6 with 3 cells in paralell ofc. just weld them together like a normal batterypack with all the tops and bottoms looking up and down, and them fold the whole battey so that the 3 in series are behind each other… use insolators and all the required safety and use a proper welder that doesnt punch holes into the cells