30 mph cut outs HALP

Does ack firmware log LVC events?

hmm, so then could that explain it that I’ve got my battery max at 40A for each VESC?

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He claimed it was 60A discharge unit. Not sure how accurate

Agree with this. Batt amps to 28-30 per side and test.
Did we get an identification on the BMS?

I had a cutout where the metr reported a crazy low voltage and it turned out to be a loose spot weld in the battery. That definitely gets eyes on overdrawing the BMS as well if it’s wired for discharge.

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Kind of? A 60A BMS does not cut the moment you pull 61A, but being 10A over could trigger it… Even though the log did not show you pulling over 60 combined…

Doesn’t matter because its happening at different voltages. That 29 volt metr log has to be a bad read because that is like flatter than a witches tit

If its a 60 amp bms then theres your issue right there. Lower your max to under that threshold. No matter what the battery is capable of the bms if its a discharge determines your battery max settings.

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Although a BMS cut could explain this. Metr captured the moment before power cycled…

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One thing is I’m not sure if metr is reading both vesc properly over CAN. I’m gonna go over and double check that, that would be a serious issue if it’s oinly reading over one…

This is the reason why so many people run bypassed BMS :sweat_smile: It’s like a witch hunt

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Metr should be logging PPM input if it’s up to date too and should be able to toggle that on in your log data using the arrow/options in the line chart view, that can help eliminate or identify the possibility of remote input issues (assuming using PPM for input of remote signal, not sure if it logs other UART or analog control input)

Yeah I run a 100amp bms for discharge on an 80 amp battery and all the rest are charge only.

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Alright, here’s my idea; I’m gonna re-setup both VESC with ACK and make sure metr is picking up data of both over CAN correctly. Then I’m gonna go on another run tomorrow or whenever the weather permits and take new data that’s 100% reliable. I set these up last year and vaguely remember having some issue with metr not working with the CAN ID’s properly and changing them from what they should be to get metr to work at all; so it’s very possible it only is picking up data from one.

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Be careful, testing for cuts at full throttle is no joke. I built a dyno for that so I don’t have to skin the pavement to find errors lol

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There are so many different elements to this problem as in so many potential problems. Sometimes I think the data logging causes confusion when you need to go back to the beginning and check everything.

I have had lvc, I have had over erpm, I have had remote cut outs and I have had thermal cut outs, in fact there isn’t a fault I haven’t experienced which is why I was asking how it felt.

When troubleshooting the first place to look is the physical, I once had a loose phase which caused a cut out, once thats out of the way then check the electronics but start at the most likely or things get really messy and you end up chasing your tail. The most likely is a remote problem because its the shittiest part of the build. Cheap and nasty in general. Local environment can play a part too. Radio transmitters, mobile phone towers, power boxes can all fuck with your signal.

Good luck with it because until you find the issue then confidence in the build will be hard to get back.

Wrong reply recipient lol @whaddys

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Yeah thanks @Dareno, I’m just reluctant to think it’s the remote because it happened with a different remote a while back, so I switched it back to my GT2B because it’s always been the most reliable I’ve got, and now it happened again. =(

also yeah, I’m not gonna try to trigger the cutout, just gonna push the board to max once or twice to check metr data. also gonna change battery limits to 30A each

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my 2 cents for piece of mind is to bypass discharge

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I’d have to do serious battery surgery for that tho right?

I would need to see some pics, but not really, adding a loopkey is most of the work

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hmm, I might be hitting you up at some point later for some guidance on that

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It’s pretty simple if you’re competent at soldering large gauge wires. It’s a matter of snipping 1 wire from the BMS and attaching it to a wire coming from the battery. And adding a loopkey or eswitch.

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