£260 - ALL TERRAIN MOON DRIVES

Next batch coming Mid December. Been a bit slow as I’ve had other projects that have required my attention. I’ll let you know about those pressfits in a couple days…

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Had anyone installed the helical Moons on LC hypertrucks with Rockstar 2’s. I feel like there is too much resistance and no free roll at all. I feel my backlash is set correctly with a little play, and a little red grease…possibly can use more backlash? Is there a secret with installing the wheels onto the plate? I don’t feel they are secured enough,and when I tighten the wheel nut, they bind up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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I have seen this before, the key is making sure you have the right amount of spacers between the wheel gear and the wheel itself. If there is any gap between the adaptor plate and wheel, when you tighten the wheel bolts it will pull the wheel gear into the carbon gearbox lid, causing it to bind. Using the correct amount of spacers solves this as the adaptor cannot be pulled to the wheel if it sits so they just touch. Also, ensure you tighten the wheel bolts in a star pattern to the correct amount.

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Thank you Lee, Im going to take them apart tonight, and do a once over. Also I was unaware that the rubber gasket was just resting on the carbon fiber cover. Mine was pushed into the open slot around the wheel gear. I didn’t run it yet, so no harm.

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yeah you really want the o ring to only just touch the carbon plate, you also want to smear a thin layer of the same lithium grease you used for the gears on the oring part that touches the carbon

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@moon Snapped my first baseplate, no fault to the gear tho, had remote issue causing the board to take off and smash into stationary object at 53.6 km/h
Edit: Everything else survived just that the baseplate broke.

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Do you have pictures of the broken baseplate?

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So… How do I go about attaching my wheels to the wheel adapter while making sure the nuts are holding the hubs together? :sweat_smile:

I assume people face the same issue when using rockstar 2s with belt pulleys. Is there any trick to it? Or do I just not use the wheel nuts?

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For what you need nuts?
The wheel adapter works as „nuts“ and should press the hub half’s together.

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I copy Andy but say it in a sexier voice…

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Thank you Andy for your wisdom and Justin for your sexiness!

Also I now get @glyphiks raging at setting up spacers for Matrix 2s, hahaha. I got it right and then saw I forgot the v-ring, lol

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As a PSA: I feel like the shaft should be only 23mm long, for the 9mm gap and 14mm pinion. I just saw “24”, and must have left a 10mm gap, and can hear the pinion gear brushing against the case. Don’t do what I did lol

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Yes of course, sorry for the delay it is broken on the side that took the impact first (note current mounted wheels are note the one from the crash), broken sidewall of the pivot cup and the pivot cup rubber is also cracked, rest of the baseplate and truck is fine.

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Something I just discovered while assembling my second Moon drives. New Flipsky 6374 have chamfered faceplates and they don’t fully cover the screw slots in the gearbox cases…

Looks like I will have to epoxy those slots, anybody has better ideas?

Flipsky vs Maytech

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Drop of silicone or sugru works well too and easier to remove, just in case you need it one day

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Silicone might be a bit better idea tbh yes

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@ducktaperules has an awesome 3D printed part that bolts in to fix this. Bonus is it also acts as a grease saver

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^this?

Looks like it’ll need to be modified to fit the latest batch case profile, but it’s a great idea.
Prob also add a grease port hole

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@moon

What are these threaded holes used for (yellow arrows)?

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Yes that. Not sure on if it needs modifying but that is what you want. Maybe @moon could throw an STL together? It’s a 10 min job

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