Theoretical is 73.9mph with that setups yes on the BRP 150mm wheels. Definitely agree with all of what you have to say in terms of gearing and cost. An investment for sure. But there are cheaper high current escs like the Makerx G300 on the market too.
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Not sure which version little focers you have, how many battery amps can they support?
7PM
Joint i2s OC and i2s SD event. Iād expect there to be stuff up on instagram today/tmr
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I believe 100 Batt Amps but I honestly cannot confirm that as Idk where the older version spec sheet is. I believe they are 3.0 @shaman would you by chance have specs on them?
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i had mines set to battery 95 per esc with no issues (not that i ever got it that high)
also only maxed out at 197a @61v for 12kw
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Gotcha! That would put me to 123 mph gearing with 78T on the 10" gokart tires Iām planning for after esk8con 
So adding to the cost would be 4x custom spurs well over 100T, at which size stock would be iffy as well
The G300 are a nice alternative for sure and itās very reliable as well unlike the D100S which no longer has a spotless reputationā¦ But itās still like 1400$ of just ESCs for 4WD. I would definitely consider them if I were doing a 2WD build, but I like 4WD so much more as I mostly race short track.
Besides, I honestly doubt I could actually put down more than the 22kW or so the reacher setup maxes out at, especially short and medium track, no tef1.
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For short track yes, but I definitely found this not the case geared for anything more that 60km/hr. Switching between the v5 and my 4wd made the 4wd feel very underpowered for long track even with the 4wd geared 30km/hr lower. I did run 85ās up front for a short time but found it pretty pointless when the traction isnt there and I prefer a rear bias for braking.
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If you were to run the same split as me (itās actually quite preferential) youād max out the rear batt amps for acceleration and the front batt amps for brakes. Then run 35-50% of these values to the other side depending on preference. With battery amps I am okay with up to about 50% of the rear values in the front and vice versaā¦
If itās 100A each then spec the battery for 300 total, if itās 80A only then spec for 240.
Youād ideally not go over 50A per cell, so Iād say 6P is the minimum you want to run to not overstress cells. And higher P is reducing sag so even though you are pushing the same amps you gain power (although less and less). Tbh Iād start with thinking about what you can fit without it getting in the way when you lean forward for acceleration and back for braking, and what fits without making the battery awkward to build.
6P should be fine for acceleration but the reverse sag might bite you if run the same amps for braking, not sure how much sag they have exactly and how happy the focers are with some spikes. So if itās easy to fit more P Iād say feel free to go for it.
Iāll believe it when I see it. Iām not ready to call bullshit on the hobbywing ratings because they do have the low end torque. @sugandese out-accelerates my 6495 setup by a mile and Iām geared to less speed than him. We donāt really do long track, and his temps are still way less than mineā¦
The theoretical just doesnāt stack up here for us.
Oversteer bias gang 
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I know if youāre braking it straight lines a front bias is going to be more effective. I always felt like I was fighting heavy steering or understeering trail braking with too much stopping power up front though.
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only way iāve seen vesc be even comparable to the 56118 and 70125ās is on awd with hv batteries
me too, with the reacher motors running higher than 10k rpm. That overheats a lot faster 
The 2000A and 1600A ratings are definitely bullshit, but itās possible that it might do like 7-800A - at that point itād be heating up for sure though. Iām definitely not believing any more than that.
My 2WD 6495 setup when geared to about 65 km/h just spins pretty much any 6" tire up to about 30 km/h where the limit starts to be the 13kW batteryā¦ How many phase amps are you running? Some data, measured 1.09 sec to 20mph at around 85% throttle. That was about 170A each, and grip limit. If I could put down 100% throttle of that power thatād be enough for 1st place in the drag times. I think the absolute max I got the motors up to was around 85C, so still had 15C headroom. Granted that was 20C ambient.
Heating is iron losses on reachers. Gotta gear so they donāt bite you in the ass as easily and gotta have enough amps to compensate.
Iām not sure the spinning tyres thing is a real flex. Id say most of us are fighting traction issues
i think the point heās trying to make is that he doesnāt have enough traction running 6495ās at full power to justify the 56118ās at more amps
Haha yeah I think heās referring to the gearing not actually spinning at that speed.