I have a couple dumb questions… lol
I recently bought some seemingly older rare esk8 electronics from @fessyfoo a couple gps Modules and a xenogotchi! Which I’m super stoked on
Getting ready for intro to speed tmr night I wanted to throw this in the GPS module in gps slot on my Robogotchi, But the Cable coming off the gps module seems to not be applicable to the robogotchis 4 pin header…
My first question is where would one attain such tiny female connector? It looks a lot like a jst connector but smaller… (seems like I’ll have to cut the current one off and wire it up myself )
The closest thing I could find that looked like it might work was this. Amazon.com
any advice is appreciated!
My second question is if & when I plug this module in is it plug and play? Or are there steps to be taken before plugging this module in?
that vid is his follow up. where he seems to show how he was technically right, but concedes he didn’t explain well and got units wrong. it references many other youtubers who went and explained it better cause of him.
idk about that connector. i think the later gps module came with the small one.
that gps module I think the circuit board is just going form the crazy small one to the larger one.
what pin to pin pitch is the small one? is it 1mm? it looks smaller.
Okay fellarz we have some sweet potatoes on the horizon, I’m going to cram a 20s8p into this v5 the utilizing the magic of a wanna be electro-mechanical engineer. I have a clever idea to make this happen it’s definitely never been done on a v5 or maybe any stooge-board but I’m gonna try and keep it a secret for now.
I have still have lots of prep work such as purchasing a supercap bank / computer power-supplies to power the supercapbank, aswell as purchasing a heavy duty soldering iron… I don’t think my ts101 is going to cut it even if I got a larger tip for it. And lastly some thiccc nickel strips. I currently have .2 thick but I don’t think it will do it.
If you need more than 0.2 nickel you have to look towards copper. The Kweld can’t weld 0.3 nickel reliably as far as I know.
Your best bet would probably be 0.15 copper with a 0.1 nickel plated steel strip on top. The steel strips helps with heat generation during the welding process significantly, and Kweld should be able to do 0.15 copper I think with a good power source. If it doesn’t work 0.1 copper should work for sure with the 0.1 steel on top.
Copper is 4x as conductive as nickel. So 0.1 copper is equivalent to 0.4 nickel, 0.15 copper is equivalent to 0.6 nickel, you’d get huge benefits going this way.
How were you able to determine the total power lost by iron losses?? Obviously some sort of logging system ey? I’m trying to figure out how you are able to see that…
Lots of ways of looking for it, but I looked at the recorded data from my Megan, while spinning at the motors at top speed on the bench.
losses = battery current * voltage
Couple seconds. You’re not wrong, there’s stories of people popping their vesc’s this way. One of the nice things about having way overspec’d vescs is I don’t really worry about it.
It looks like an offset stack would fit and be slightly lower.
A kweld should do 0.3mm fine in the manual they recommend 100J and the pre-cut tabs with the slot is easier.
Mboards for offset 0.2mm 8P tabs and bioboards for 8P 0.3mm not offset.
Also that many cells will help with how much current goes through the nickel.
I think that plug you were asking about a while ago on the Robogotchi looks like a JST-SH 1.0mm I could be wrong though.
That’s actually still as simple as welding nickel - there you have a copper sheet with holes and small nickel inserts welded to it. That would also work though, especially for 8P P45B, I don’t there’s a need to go any more overkill than that.
What I meant is taking an actual copper sheet, and putting a small nickel plated steel sheet on top of it. The steel only has to cover the weld area, doesn’t need to go from cell to cell, it’s only there to help the welder generate enough heat so that it can actually weld the copper.
Here I was testing my new welder with 0.3 copper 0.1 steel, I am gonna build hopefully 90A per P group modules soon, and there I think I need the direct copper contact.
Happy to help but I’m super busy for the next few weeks and quite far behind schedule with university and work so I would prefer to just chat for now. Happy to answer it all, just ask them in our insta pm
So I’m getting ready to do some higher speed stuff… & I am setting the front a rear to completely dead / no steer.
But I ran into a problem. Spine of the board prevents the locknut from lining up with the gusset hole.
My ideas in solving this would either be dremel out the spine a little so that that nut doesn’t collide with the frame. Or I could drill the hole a little bigger…
If anyone else has any better suggestions please let me know.
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