Cause the inrunner bois have been doing this for a while
Right Iām not entirely Sure, One way or another Ill find out
Youāre already got it narrower then I have Ankle Wreacher⦠I donāt think narrowing it up would improve the thing youāre trying to improve (but would love to be proven wrong)
Iād suggest try swapping to flat washers on your bushings first
Not something Iāve heard of before, I wouldnāt worry about it. If itās a problem, itās got an easy fix of offsetting the motors more ĀÆ\(ć)/ĀÆ
To me it felt like I had to increase the angle on the rear links for more steer
I could Try that! What changes have you noticed as a result? I recall awhile back somewhere at some point you mentioned that you utilize some sort of graphite Lube or Oil for the Bushings? & it made a notable difference. Maybe thatās worth trying simultaneously with flat washers?
Moe shipped these a month or so ago, a set without the machining I mean⦠I thought it was a mistake but it makes sense.
Cover everything in graphite powder. The more the better.
For more detail, check out my Ankle Wreacher thread;
I showed Moe Ankle Wreacherās flat washer setup, he liked it. I think Iāve got him on the flat washer train as well, so shipping those mightāve been intentional. But could be wrong
Yeah he definitely intended to send them. Iām gonna do some t-racing and then switch them out see if I can notice the difference
If the swap to flat washers from cupped washers is a similar feel compared to what it is on usual RKPs, then I think it was a really good move. Thereās very few trucks where I enjoy cupped washers
Battery question here⦠I have a Kweld & would like to be able to use it. Probably tmr for the first time. I believe one of my HRB 4S Raceboard batteries would work as power source for it.
The Input voltage states 4-30v
Lemme know if anyone thinks differently or suggests not to use my raceboard batteries for such purpose.
The idea is to design a shroud for this fan to shove air into the motor inlet slots
Hopefully I can get this done before this weeks practice session aswell as build a small 2s/8.4v battery to power each fan.
Worst case if I canāt get this small battery built in time I could probably utilize my retired MT12 remote battery
ā¦Haha thatās a picture of it after a gnarly fall⦠it had launched out of the remote. Itās since been patched up.
Plan of attack
I purchased 4 of them!
(2 fans for each motor )
Each motor have 4 inlets total.
(Though one inlet is utilized for the phase wires & sensor wires) - those 4 streaks of Purple, Blue, Grey & Black indicate the phase wire slot⦠Not airflow lol
Each fan should will have 2 channels to handle one isolated air Channel & the one in the middle will get the residual air flow.
If this isnāt enough 3 fans per motor it shall be. But Iām gonna start with 2 per motor hopefully it should make a Difference.
Pretty sure Iāve seen people use lipos for their welders before, as long as it produces enough amps. Just check your welds by doing some test welds beforehand, and keep an eye on the heat of everything.
If you have to use lipos i would parralell 2 or 3 of them. They can give you enough amps but at the cost of huge voltage sag and as a result more often then not using one lipo produces weak welds. If you plan on making batteries i would recomend investing a bit more in that Kcap and power supply or, get a really good car battery, or an equivelent Lifepo4 pack.
You could get 4 of these and make a 4s1p. I have 3 of these set ups and they are working great for spotwelding. Also plenty of other choices on BHU for a good 12v pack. I would recomend a higher AH one, like around 100AH would be best.
I would not use your race battery for it. it can be abusive to the lipos. at least not long term.
Also they used to recommend a 3s lipo for kweld. i believe this is to keep the current spikes down. kweld power supply has to be selected to provide enough amps to weld and not too much from the inductive spike. itās in the manual, tho not that succinctly. I think a 4s lipo needs higher IR to avoid spiking too high. itās also affected by cable length. (inductance)
again the manual does explain it all, might take a couple of reads to grok.
Hmm so technically you could get away with a kCap Ultracapacitor module? with a proper Power Supply?
on this spec sheet for the kCap,
They Recommend this Power Supply
Link
Which Im not sure adds Up? The input Current needed for the KCap is 70A and the Power Supply can only output 20A. Maybe it would work fine but the charge cycle of it needing to power up would take a little longer?.. (EDIT) okay now that I read that sheet thats exactly what its describing.
Maybe I could run two power supplys in parallel to make up for a lack of current output
Would Utilizing them Essentially Destroy the internal Integrity of them?
From what it sounds like utilizing a battery seems a little more dangerous compared to utilizing the K-Cap with its own power supply.
You have to consider the resistance of the batteries in series
From Frank creator of kweld
Summary
Desired current is 1500A. The resistance of the kWeld system is roughly 3.2 milliOhms (stock cables). The weld spot itself contributes another 1 milliOhm typical. This gives 4.2 milliOhms total. To push 1500A through that, you need U = R*I = 6.3V from an ideal battery. For every milliOhm of batteryās internal resistance, you need another 1.5V accordingly. Or in other words, for every volt above 6.3V that the battery has, it needs to have 1 milliOhm of internal resistance to stay in the sweet spot for the current. A 3S battery therefore needs to have 12-6.3 = 5.7 mOhms. Then calculate the power loss in the battery: P = 0.5 * R * I2 = 6412 W. That explains why they heat up quickly, even though the pulses are short. Now consider a 6S battery. That must have an internal resistance of 24-6.3 = 17.7 mOhms. Then P = 19912W. You see that the power loss in that battery is huge. This is why I recommend 2S to 3S batteries for the welder.
Thank you! Thatās making more sense. Kinda Strange how resistance builds up by a lot when the batteries are stacked in series.
What is Expo?