“Only 6 min with 20s2p” 
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Wanted to see if these 8ah 200a were worth using on a Raceboard.
Hooked up a quick 4s pack to the 200a Mamba xlx on a single drive. This is what happened.
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I think it would help if you put up the graph of a regular 8s/4s that you use. I think I’m looking at the graph wrong though…
Was testing the cell under applied load to see if it was 200a capable. 8s will produce the same result. These cells are ultra cheep. Simple to assemble and now I know they can be used in a raceboard. 8s 3p 24ah 720wh 600a 120.00usd.
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Wow, that’s crazy! I can’t wait to see how they are on your boards!
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What method did you use to attach the tabs?
I’m currently trying to make a 13S2P but it’s not simple using the foil crimps me and @Arzamenable were were using. Due to them only being about to attach two tabs at once, unlike other methods that can attach many tabs together.
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Great to see you getting behind these cells. Shows that there is genuine potential for what is an excellent opportunity for DIY builders
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Wait! There’s more, They are good for the right application. High discharge, big space. Teeny capacity
They look cheap and you can do Good feeling numbers on paper. But this may not be ideal for you, unless you are ok with a 50lbs+ board with a lunchbox on top.
Even proper foil crimps (Mechanically mated on series connections, I doubled up) rated for 40- 60a cont don’t feel right on 90% of Eskate.
I traded mine to @iamasalmon for use on a scooter without Eskate constraints.
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Larger blue pack is a 12s lipo pack I have pulled 200a burst out of, 90a cont over 3 minutes. Made of tattu 6s 25c 14ah x 2 in series. $300, only need to heat shrink if at all.
Smaller blue pack is made of 6 cells. Factor In time making a pack, experimenting with connections, you will need at least a 12s pack if you are using on vesc based escs vs castle gear. A 12a1p With 8ah might get you 3 track runs. I brought two 10ah packs for racing. A practice and game time pack.
I use it in a 3s2p config to spot weld with a malelectrics welder. Works good.
Pink thing is a 30q. Fresh out of bananas
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I used 1/8" aluminum pop rivits with washers for testing. Used 8ga lead wire and rivited curved aluminum plate to attach it. No soldering. Balancing leads rivited in place.
Going to try grommet rivets next.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/323526149341
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guilty as charged 
Just finished an ebike battery with these, works well, but is yuuuuuge for a 8ah 10s battery
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Yeah, these belong in the floorpan of a go kart… (or the belly of a stoogeboard).
…man, I wish I had a garage…
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a-fuckin-men brother
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You had success directly spotwelding the Aluminium tabs?
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Keep us posted on how the new rivets work out!
Any reason to change to spring loaded ones actually?
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Spring loaded is the description of the eyelet pliers. Will make a 4s pack with the eyelets and retest.
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Oh, facepalm. Cool, keep us postet! I have a lot of these waiting to be built out so I am trying to figure out the simplest safe way to do so.
Negative. I used crimps. The pack it’s self is used as a power source for a spot welder
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Does it get you good welds?
I was going to order a kcap but Since I have over 100 of these it would be silly to not try them out.
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It does, but can’t do the copper tricks the kweld can. Maybe @BluPenguin will let me borrow his to compare.
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