In general I can ask 20 people about their settings and everybody will tell me different numbers.
How can I know if current control is even the right thing for OP 
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Exactly. It’s tempting to ask for help when new to vesc. It’s best to really get a good understanding and then do some controlled testing for your own needs/preferences.
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So you’re actively encouraging me to see if the sky collapses?
…
Hold my beer
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I think @rich runs 0.0001 or something like that. 
Might be better to have a One somewhere in the end.
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I didn’t take it to mean this at all. If I go from accel to brake, I believe the brake takes over immediately and starts the negative ramping timer.
Is it really a delay at all if it’s just remapping the throttle response over time? I don’t feel any delay but have wondered what 0s does as well 
For me it is. Even though it starts ramping the brakes it takes in this case min half a second till I have full braking force.
I tried different ramping settings and I think it does make quite a difference.
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Because if for any reason you lose signal or slip off the throttle or whatever at full speed, it will take half a second to release the acceleration gradually. 0.2s will make me eat asphalt 100% of the time.
Also, from acceleration to brake you would have the 0.5s ramp up time. That is the total time from the old input to the new input. Releasing the throttle from any position would take the ramp down time
I actually run 0.4 ramp up 0.6 ramp down
#fuckramping
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I might be wrong here, but I think that is not how it works. If you lose signal and your remote fail safe is set to 0 than there will be no ramping at all doesn’t matter which values you set for positiv and negative ramping.
Legends say if you put it to -0.1 you don’t need a remote anymore as it start breaksing before you even push the trigger
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Sorry to disappoint you but it’s 0.1 for both 
I remember the discussion about lowering the ramping time further but never did it.
Did you try 0 already? I think it’s not possible.
I gonna try the lowest possible ramping time now in my flat because it’s raining and I’m curious, too. Hopefully I don’t regret it like usual when trying things at home.
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Send skid mark pictures later
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Just tried 0 and am still alive. TBH I couldn’t feel any difference to 0.1.
BUT when I tried current mode I almost killed myself because I was used to smart reverse 
@k2.138 don’t worry too much about most of the settings in the beginning as long as you did the wizards.
45A batt current max and -10A max regen each side is safe.
The biggest noticeable difference in settings is Motor Current Max and Motor Current Max Brake. Don’t set those values too high in the beginning. I would start with e.g. 50A motor and -40A brake. If the brakes are too strong then try -30A or more if they are too weak. If you want more power you can increase motor current max to 60A, 70A, 80A. If you want to go crazy then 100A.
When you found your perfect values you can tweak other settings but I think it’s safer to not change everything in the beginning.
wait which FW do you use?
there is a bug which can lead to eating concrete if you don’t change a setting when hitting max speed.
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My experiences so far are with interferences fucking up the signal and vesc interpreting said input as neutral. This means that signal failure manifests as acceleration, sudden idle, acceleration again, and so on until signal either breaks completely or recovers. Add that to the fact that i have a vesc wand that eats through potentiometers every month and i’m left with a decent amount of unplanned “cutouts” that do get filtered through ramp timers.
In conclusion, control mode, ramp up/down times, deadband, smart reverse ramp up, traction control and throttle exponential curves are highly subjective and down to every user’s choice. In my opinion they make the most difference when it comes to making a board feel in tune with the rider.
I think he maxes out the caracter limit each time
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