I want to add some 5v LED cob lights. Has anyone used the 5v output on the D100s to do this? If it sounds like a really bad idea, I could use a buck converter. Before the search button police come, I searched and could not find anything.
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I wouldn’t use that. It’s the same 5v your remote will use and if something goes wrong you can crash. Id use an isolated power supply.
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Not only that, but the current you can draw is also quite limited. Not sure on the exact number but I’d be very suprised if it can supply more than 1A in total
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I like to keep things simple.
So I’m totally ok with shred lights that you charge separately.
And a good head lamp for night rides.
But lots of people do lights.
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Don’t forget to replace those kingpins. Typically takes a while to develop but well known for shearing. Replace with a high tensile bolt. I was luckily going very slowly when mine snapped.
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Great info like this, is why I’m here! Simple fix that can avoid headaches down the road.
I’m slowly putting stuff together. Question, since I’m running pneumatic tires is it necessary to install a rubber pad that mounts between the deck and the DKP truck? Forgive me, if I’m using the wrong definition for parts. I need to figure this out so I can order the correct length for the 12.9 high strength bolts.
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It won’t hurt.
It won’t make much of a difference either way.
Since DKP trucks are tall as it is I expect I would skip it…
Or more likely I would use one of the skimmer ones… I do like soft pads between the truck and Deck.
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If the deck is not perfectly flat where the baseplate mounts Then the shock pad helps spread the load more evenly across more of the deck.
I find the The shockpad squishing on the first roll causes the hardware to need to be retorqued when once I roll a few miles and while they are hot, but it is possible to overtighten them too when torquing towards the normal ‘hard stop’.
If they loosen up the baseplates might shift out of alignment. I Aim a straight edge between my baseplates and try to lock it aligned.
I buy my 10-32 hardware long and will cut it to fit if and when I get around to it, and consider them to be a maintenance item and replace regularly.
Grade 12.9 has the highest tensile strength, but is said to be potentially brittle and grade 10.9 could be more than strong enough perhaps preferable.
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Unfortunately, the heatsink’s holes didn’t align with my esc. 
Are my only options to drill new holes into the heatsink?
There is double sided thermal tape available, but it is nowhere near as effective as metal on metal.
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If it were me i’d either drill new holes or look at making some kind of bracket that uses the heatsink/enclosure mounting holes that secures the esc down to the heatsink as well
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I drilled the holes and mounted the ESC. Next, I launched the vesc tool for the first time and got everything working. For some reason the power button won’t turn off. I disconnected and reconnected the battery and still have the same issue. Is there something I’m missing in the Vesc tool or could the new pwr button be shot?
I’d bet it’s a setting for the shutdown mode. If I remember right, the left ESC needs to be set to always on, and then the right ESC is the one that actually controls shutdown. On that side you can choose the button option.