How do household tools do with lower voltage ac? What were u going to use it for?
I assume he means 48v to 120AC. Be completely useless to switch DC to same voltage AC
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Would it be useless? Maybe a slower blender. No more extreme purée. TV with slow mo.
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Is that… I’m like 92.6% sure that’s not how it works 
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blender blending the wrong way? Just flip the batteries around and you’re good!
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Such a product.
Power outages due to typhoons are increasing year by year in my country.As its preparation.
I think it can be applied to something else.
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Can be used with 10s, rated 36VDCAC inverter.
However, 100A is required to support 3000W. The load on the cell is large, and the cable becomes thick.
75A at DC48V rating. This is more efficient.
DC36V inverter is a rare product.
There are many types of DC12V and DC24V that can be used in motor homes.
What you tryin to power off an eboard? Your espresso machine? lol
But also consider that a higher voltage battery will have less cells per P group for the same size, so it makes less difference that the amps were reduced. Only really a factor when we’re talking about very high amps. Ultimately, more power needs bigger battery.
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40T12S3P.
At least this much battery would be required.
With the advent of the StormCore 100D ESC, I am planning a 14S8P, or 14S10P.I am pleased that this concept can be realized.Most home appliances will work.
Simply place the XT90 connector with anti-spark on the outside.
The range is also very long.Great performance as a skateboard.
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Trampa >/dev/null
That’s better
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Vanarian has joined the battle
So what’s consortium now, people are building 100v ESCs or we’re still scratching balls & drinking tea?
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I’d just like to drop a comment that I have been spinning a concept of a bigger standalone BMS supporting 6S-18S packs. Once we go over 18S, the BMS design becomes more complicated, requiring multiple call stack monitoring ICs. Still doable, but upto 18S, it’s still a “simple” setup.
Also some people were talking about electrocution. Well here’s a guy going to town with 220 VAC mains voltage with hand grips and seeing at which current passing from hand-to-hand (AKA through heart) he can still let go. He is a professional electrician and understands the risks of doing this and even though I have followed his videos for a long time, I still think this was a very, very, very stupid idea to test.
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Ok that’s kinda dumb, the current drastically depends on how dry or wet your hands are or any electrolyte like salt. And there’s no predicting where the current goes. Maybe through your lungs, maybe through your heart. It’s kinda like playing russian roulette. But with that said, it’s easier to let go of AC. DC current has much higher chance of locking your muscles because it’s a steady flow. However people claiming electrocution risk for 20s or less is being quite dramatic. Some caution should be taken at all voltages but 20s will not arc to skin. It can’t even electrocute you through a sheet of toilet paper. So anyone who cannot take even basic precautions on this, has no business disassembling in the first place.
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I agree, I think 18s will be the sweet spot for reliability and ease of implementation. If you go from 12s to 18s and tune your motor kv from 190 to 130, you can get the same torque with about half the heat generated in the ESC, so if before you ran 90 amps peak now you can run 60 amps peak for the same feel. And if your motors are good enough, then you can push 90 amps peak still and get 50% more off the line power without a huge ESC or a ton of heat in the enclosure. You can keep using an xt90 without surpassing it’s ratings. 18s can keep a lot of the electronics in the build the same scaling as before while delivering 50% more power, it should be fun.
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SK3 6374, the 192kV has significantly more W per kV, 10A higher rating, and 18g more weight than the 168kV and the 149kV variants.
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I doubt the 18g +2% wire weight would account for roughly double the wattage.
My guess is they test their motors using 12s with a set load (since they list voltage as 12s for all motors) and the high KV motor pulls way more watts running at higher rpm. To compare the ability of those motors to output watts on the same load they’d need to be run at different voltages to put them all at the same rpm.
They also list 80 amps for the 192kv and 70 amps for the other two which doesn’t seem right considering how much the wire size should vary between motors.
You’re counting 18g of wire weight against the total weight of the motor?
Good catch. In any case, there isn’t a weight difference between the other two motors so it doesn’t look like weight explains the difference in listed watts.
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Well no, kV makes a difference too, everyone knows the more the RPM the more the power. I’m betting the extra Copper, extra 10A and extra kV does account for the increased power. Would be handy to know what the actual Copper weighs though.
Watt rating is the amount of watts a motor can put out while remaining at a safe temp. Watts drawn will vary based on the load and all things being equal a higher KV will create a greater load drawing more watts.
Watt rating should be relatively constant for a given amount of copper no matter how it’s wound. Thin wire for lots of turns vs thick wire for few turns should perform the same as long as they are moving the same load. E.g. A 100g motor should have roughly the same watt rating as 100kv or 200kv provided the 100kv motor is fed 2x the voltage and 1/2 the amperage.
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