12s3p Eskate pack for a Buskin Sportster enclosure & deck. This will be a full rebuild with Elofty DD motors and DKP trucks.
0.2x8mm nickel on .3x10mm copper, Samsung 30Q
15 Likes
No fishpaper rings?
I have not seen Samsung 30Q in a blue shrink wrap before.
0.3mm copper under 0.2mm pure nickel is a lot of conductor.
I am jealous! 
Is that an AwithZ P120D welder?
It would be great if you could share the welder settings you used.
1 Like
Very clean, no notes.
I do have a question; why not use a cell capable of output closer to that of the conductor you chose? I only ask because you invested in a high end welder and the Samsung 30q often cost more than better cells available today.
I want to reiterate how clean your build is, you are clearly very skilled so please forgive the above question.
4 Likes
What is the best 18650 cell these days?
P28a is cheaper than the 30q right now for example
The Ampace JP30 and the EVE 30PL are the best 2 power 18650 cells currently available.
At 40 amps continuous they deliver more wh than the 21700 P42A, and sag less.
3 Likes
Wow. I had not seen these. They are wild.
1 Like
I think the Eve 30PL is the most power dense cylindrical cell available.
Nelvick has them in stock right now.
Looks like aftermarket wraps have gone on after the fishpaper
1 Like
There are fishpaper rings, they’re just mostly obscured by the fat copper strips.
I re-wrapped the cells, that’s why pink/blue layer of shrink wrap, and it 200% keeps the rings from sliding (I find the adhesive lacking under warm temps). I don’t think it’s necessary but I like to do it.
This is indeed the AwithZ P120D, and I used 290, 5ms preheat, .2ms delay, 2 shots. It’s definitely more conductor than necessary for this build, I just wanted to try.
I had to round off the 3mm copper weld tips to be very fat, otherwise they stick too hard to the nickel. In fact, you can see in some of the photos they’ve been almost completely blunted out from continuous welding.
I almost think .3mm copper is not worth welding unless absolutely necessary, or maybe I need flux, or to use .1 steel over it instead?
3 Likes
It is only because I have a literal bucket of the 30Q lying around.
3 Likes
I like this sentence.
Thank you for posting your welder settings!
The AwithZ P120B laughs at 0.5mm worth of 0.3 copper and 0.2 pure nickel sandwich, using a fraction of its available power, I love it!
This is without Nelvick’s copper brazing paste/ welding flux too?
If you are so inclined, and have the spare time, please contribute to the spot welding copper/copper nickel/copper stainless steel sandwich thread.
Your input and data would be appreciated, and help us narrow down the variables and fine tune the end results.
3 Likes
That’s correct have not tried using flux. Tearoff strength is quite good and pretty consistent.
3 Likes
Power to spare and consistent. Yeehaw!
I have the p20B at 14.6Kw compared to your P120B at 69.2kW of power, and 0.3mm copper is within my grasp, but not with pure nickel or Nickel plated steel on top.
0.1mm Stainless(304) on top of 0.3mm copper, and flux below, I can weld it at close to max power.
I am not finding my tips stick to the stainless to nearly the same degree as they did to pure nickel or nickel plated steel, but this observation is not shared.
There are likely a few variables like the tip shape and pressure used, and the specific nickel or nickel steel or grade of stainless steel used, but the more data the better.
I am hesitant to be that guy, and nit pick your balance wires, but I believe the best practices are to prevent balance wires crossing each other, without fishpaper in between.
Deck/enclosure/battery Flex, vibration, and pressure of foam padding on crossed balance wires could one day possibly cause a direct short between balance leads.
2 Likes
Did you try welding the copper directly, with no nickel sandwich?
1 Like
I have not, should i?
1 Like
I have the same welder and i’m sure it is capable but i have not made time to try it… just saves a step and quite a lot of time!
2 Likes
I agree, I’d put fishpaper wherever balance wires cross, especially on a urethane build.
Also I’m not sure how flexy the Sportster is, I thought it’s quite flexy but never had the chance to actually try one. If it does flex, then this construction of welded series conductors could be an issue over the long term. Though I guess the unsegmented plastic enclosure might stiffen it up enough for this to not be a concern, especially with how strong tearoff strength 0.3 copper can have.
Pretty clean battery build overall!
1 Like
I have a Bustin Sportster that I built a few years ago with a 10S4P pack of 18650’s. I love the Sportster Deck. It has great concave and it really locks your feet in well. I use it mostly for grocery shopping now because it fits really well in a grocery cart. IMO, the Sportster rides best on forgiving wheels (like Cloud Wheels) because the deck is stiffer than most. Good luck on your build. You will enjoy it when it is complete! Cheers!
1 Like
Thank you!
Indeed the sportster is much stiffer than you’d think from looking, there’s a good amount of thickness and a thick fiberglass layer under the griptape. Along with the stiff enclosure I don’t think the flex will be a problem for this battery.
How did you fit 10s4p batteries, it’s super tight as is with 12s3p!
I only put kapton between the balance wire crossovers, didn’t think it would need fishpaper.
2 Likes