Mostly acceleration and braking for me, could be placebo, could be throttle curves but I definitely noticed going from vesc 4.12 to cheap foccers for instance. 4.xx feels a lot more “raw” probably due to the missing 3rd phase shunt.
please don’t buy from mboards, just don’t
also, this combo is known to have slight issue when saving settings via the app (if u r using v23.46)
since u r in the US, there are bunch of battery builder that should be able to sort u out with awesome spec battery, @A13XR3 / @BenjaminF / @Skyart / ZachTetra (too busy) / @JoeyZ5…etc (sorry if i miss anyone)
As far as i remember the unity can’t do two thing over uart at the same time, so you need to have the remote off when you save the settings
As some have mentioned, Mboards is not a company you should buy from. They have a history of scamming and very very poor battery building skills. Also overpriced.
Take the time, get people like @BenjaminF or @A13XR3 to build a custom battery to your needs. You won’t regret it.
As for the enclosure, unless of course you are experienced with enclosure making and kydex, I wouldn’t go that route. @eBoosted makes fantastic quality enclosures, even has one for the haero. He takes some time because they are made on order unless he has them in stock, but that’s a rock solid option I wouldn’t brush buy.
I mean after all, you’ve gone for some extremely premium products such as Lacroix trucks, the Haero board, I wouldn’t just lowball on the battery and enclosure, I’m sure aesthetics are important to you!
Good luck building! Remember to save for safety gear such as helmet, top body armour, and knee pads! Very essential when zooming
I am so busy with classes I can do batteries, I still have 2 personal packs to make
his battery is still from china, there isn’t any reduced shipping time. might as well pay less and buy directly from china while also have the same shipping time lol
Thanks to You and everyone for the replies. Wish I would’ve posted a list of what I was going to get instead of what I already got. Hopefully it’ll roll for a bit while I wait for a proper battery.
So just message the folks suggested and see who’s available?
And what size battery would you suggest?
I wear full motor cross pads and motorcycle helmet when I ride, had a couple 20mph crashes and willing to accept what can happen when shit goes south. I’ve put over 800 mi on my flex since January. It’s a toy. I want to go fast. Stupid fast, like so scared gonna puke fast.
Thanks
Depends on what you want to do. And of course your kydex enclosure.
you’ll be running top mount or bottom mount battery?
i’d recommend 12s5p P42a to be a bare minimum nowadays unless it’s a commute board and you do less than 30km a day. Having great range let’s say 50-60km youd be looking at a 12s8p or 12s10p, but this will add weight.
use the calculator here to give you a rough estimate. Set the wh/km to around 24 since you’ll be zooming at speed
at this stage your hearing and wheel size is the key. If you had chosen an ESC like the Spintend or Lacroix 100D you could have gone for an 18s battery. This would significally increase your speed for the same gearing. Would give you more headroom because i’m gussing you are a slightly hefty guy so you don’t want zero saggy torque either.
I don’t know, if the aim is a fast board i’d go with a light board, just so i could controll it more like an analog
Thank you
I don’t think you’re wrong, but wanted to give a different perspective. Range is cool and if 12s10p had no downsides I’d be happy to run it, but you can still get a lot of use out of small board. It’s not like trying to run wimpy hubs or a single 5065 where the experience is fundamentally different and not fit for purpose if you have short range, it’s just largely the same thing but not for as long. There are also some legit user benefits like being able to more easily transport the board, or hop on and off it for cities, as well we the obvious point that it’s way WAY cheaper.
I run 12s3p and 10s2p 18650 setups because even with fairly aggressive riding, on the smaller battery, and me weighing like 230lb/105kg I still easily hit 15km and I (this is just me) don’t personally like to go for much longer than that. OP did say he wants SPEED speed, so maybe a big battery is the best option for him but I don’t think it’s the only one. I would suggest starting with a middle ground/slightly small battery like 12s4p, and if that really won’t work then he has a good quality backup/extra backpack battery for long rides, and if it does he’s saved a mountain of cash.
EDIT: Either I misread the post I’m replying to or maybe it was changed in an edit, I thought it said 12s8p minimum - I wasn’t trying to be like “yeah 12s4p is so much better than 5p”
5Ah setups have been very good to me. They are easy to carry into a store or wherever and don’t have to be parked outside, which means being stolen.
Hey man!
I noticed between this thread and the other, that you wanted to go fast and were using 5.xx firmware.
Are you aware of the “Duty Cycle Current Limit Start” setting?
With 5.xx firmware from my understanding it defaults the “Duty Cycle Current Limit Start” to 100%.
Reason why this is an issue is because when you hit the boards top speed (100% duty cycle), it will instantly stop accelerating, which will throw you off.
If anyone could correct me if I am wrong, but it seems like the general consensus is that setting the “Duty Cycle Current Limit Start” to 85% allows for a safe buffer.
Just please make sure you change “Duty Cycle Current Limit Start”, as there are other settings with similar names, but changing these will not solve the issue.
For more information @GnomeMeansNo wrote a good summary in this thread:
Just use variESC Tool and that’s already fixed
I went from 6380 to 6355 and the control is a world of difference, I only ran the 6380’s on 60a I do have to bump the 55’ to 85a to get even close to the power (and it’s still not the same feeling but still awesome)
Thanks man. I think I did bump that down when I was in the vesc but I’ll double check fo sho before I get on to ride. Good looking out. Thanks again
I agree with you, i just shared my opinion! Many options depending on what you want. @k2.138 you can discuss all this with your battery builder as well.
lmao, no! i have 12s6p and never ever bothered about range as of yet. especially riding on the road you use less wh/km than me doing hard offroading in the mountains. But speed will of course drain your battery faster.
Aye so the majority of my answer above is pedantic picking little details because I can’t read, but I’m just gonna leave it there because the “buy a cheaper small battery unless you definitely need range” bit might be useful