Yep I’ve got a few videos, but I definitely encourage reading the battery thread, or at least part of it to get extra information
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Tbh I don’t have the funds to get into battery building at the moment (not to mention it scares the shit out of me) so I’ll probably get one from someone on here eventually. Well aware of the issues with older mboards batteries and have tried to keep it as secure as possible in there, and specifically chose this deck due to no flex basically at all. This battery is from after they switched to a supplier in China but before they brought building in house (and honestly look to be making decent batteries at this point). So I don’t think it’s a fire hazard but it’s not ideal either. I sent them a huge email with feedback on their products early on when I was barely on the forum at all and I think it may have prompted them to change up their outlook on batteries. Don’t wanna take full credit for that or anything but it’s def good to see them go in a better direction after the feedback.
Buying a new battery is a wayyy in the future thing though because if I’m putting money towards anything it’s gonna be my emtb build. This one works great at the moment! Working on some CAD for a custom top mount enclosure and gonna spend a lot more time planning on this one 
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Well you would keep the cells if you’d rebuild if, so you only expenses would be some nickel, tape and maybe an LLT bms for 20$, but I understand that it can be intimidating. If you follow the safety procedures its not that hard or dangerous though. 
Will the top mount enclosure be 3d printed or are you designing a mold?
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Plan is to have a 3d printed wall and then the top/bottom are gonna be either plasma cut or cnc aluminum probably. Here are some rough pics that I took on my phone a while back:
I’ll upload some proper screenshots later today. The design also changed a little bit from these pics.
Plan is to use some of those rubber cooler straps to secure a battery to the top of the esc enclosure, we’ll see how well that works.
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Highly recommend heat sink(s) if you’re going single enclosure for everything. I learned that the hard way, with my Hearo, DV6, and a 12s4p 21700
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Not going single enclosure for everything, battery should be strapped to the top of the ESC enclosure, going to be designed in a similar fashion. Planning to use an aluminum plate on the bottom to bolt them to. If things end up getting too toasty then I was gonna possibly look Into getting the bottom CNC’ed with heatsinks integrated.
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Looks good, whats that on the left side in the last picture?
Weather resistant draw latch from McMaster, hoping that 4 of these should be able to keep the top box in place.
I like using McMaster parts because they already have 3D models of everything.
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Are you sure that those will not pop out with vibrations? it will be a mtb after all.
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Goal was to have them pretty tight and test it out, will probably switch to straps if it’s not enough. Part of the reason that I am designing it in the way that I am is so that swapping the lid out to a different one with a different interface would be super easy if whatever I use to hold everything down doesn’t work.
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Those are pretty sizeable latches!
If you’re going for a quick release battery enclosure, I’d look into thumb screws, pelican case style latches, quick release pins, or maybe toggle latches
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Toggle latches are originally what I was looking for but I couldn’t find exactly what I wanted. Was thinking an adjustable one that rotated outwards would work really well if I could find one. Something like that could hook onto the bottom easily. This was my original brainstorming before thinking of trying the rubber latches:
The quick release pin idea is interesting although I do wonder if that would rattle a bit. Might be able to pull that off with sheet metal bending.
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Thumb screws will also achieve higher clamping pressure than latches. For better water resistance if coupled with a seal.
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Was planning on using shoulder bolts through the holes into the bottom plate that has threaded holes, so that everything locks down nice and tight. Just haven’t added the holes to the top/bottom plate yet.
I saw these guys used on my golf cart air filter box.
Tensioned nice and tight, vibration resistant, tool free access. I’d love to incorporate it into my next enclosure.
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Fyi, not sure it’s useful but I’ll offer anyway. My Plan A for heat dissipation ( before i decided to rework the whole nanuk box layout for a top mount heat sink) was a bottom mounted aluminum plate and dv6 spacer plate.
I had sendcutsend cut them. If they’re at all useful, happy to ship them next door for ya.
I can provide the cad files with measurements as well. It was meant for a bro with 3x central M5 mounting holes, and to fit under the footprint of a nanuk 905, hence the wavey profile.
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That’s awesome! Might take you up on that, my bro has the 3 central mounting holes (50mm spacing) so it might fit if yours is the same. Kinda having a hard time visualizing in my head what that looks like when mounted but since I’m honestly starting to maybe reconsider my current design I might just switch to something like the Nanuk. I really wanted to do the stacked battery on top of ESC case but unless I’m doing 4WD I’m not sure it makes sense. I’ll see how it fits whenever I do some test prints but I’m thinking it might just be way too large for a single ESC.
My hatred for tail mounted ESCs is probably unfounded (they look so ugly to me) but dammit I’m gonna try!
Let me know if this works for you:
Unfortunately holes are at 63mm spacing. Feel free to steal those models and play with it. The assembly has a ton of bodies at the top with the internal volumes of similar enclosures as well - I used those to decide which enclosure best fit my battery packs.
Smaller DV6 plate is the exact footprint as the DV6, with 4x mounting holes. It stacks on top of the larger plate via the mounting holes. (The plate sits in the hole in bottom of the enclosure, so the DV6 is a little higher and cables aren’t cramped)
Larger heat sink plate covers the whole bottom of the nanuk, but is only solid around the DV6. I figured heat dissipation drops pretty quickly once you get far enough away from the heat source, so those triangular cutouts are weight savings.
The other 8 holes around the perimeter are to mount the plate to the enclosure, to ensure it stays rigid.
The main 3x large holes in the center mount the enclosure through the plate to the deck.
I designed a whole 3d printed enclosure as well - really wanted to make that work. But for $50, it’s realllly hard to pass up a roto-molded, airtight, heavy duty proven enclosure with hinged lid. Even with the ugly looks. The latches are what finally got me. Designing 3D printable latches, or even mounting off-the-shelf versions would’ve taken enough iterations to get right, I couldn’t convince myself it was worth the time for a one-off.
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First update after I’m finally at my new apartment!
My new place is now close enough that I can skate to work now! It’s been soooooo much nicer than having to drive there oh my god. It’s only ~2 miles to work and 70% of that is on a trail through the middle of a park. My commute went from the most stressful to one of my favorite parts of the day.
Did end up getting a flat today, thinking it was mostly due to old tubes. I bought the tubes/tires used so not super surprised. Tried to save it with some slime to no avail.
Now to get my office/shop/etc. setup so that I can actually start work on my emtb 
. Just waiting on that chaiiiiin driveeee! @ApexBoards. Super pumped to start work on that!
Pic of office in shambles at the moment:
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