If you want the Megan from step bro you can have that for nothing, I feel like I don’t ever want that sort of data so won’t likely re use it myself and that board was an absolute steal, I figure this would square it out 
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Also appreciated! However, a primary design goal for this build is NON-VESC. I have faith that our man @Tony_Stark can make this dream a reality and i’m banking on that for now.
I’d love to have a logger of some description, but I can definitely live without one if i never have to touch a vesc again 
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Great to see you return.
Best of luck 
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I’ve spoken with Lorentz and i’m confident that the hubs will be fine for my needs. I think the extra width that you required may have had something to do with the gear drive adapter rather than the hub itself?
In any case, i’m pushing forward with them, will see how they go when trucks and wheels arrive!
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Just wanna shout out to Lorentz as well, their customer support via their instagram page has been excellent. Would recommend to family and friends!
Not sure if you’re behind that wheel @ChrisLips but whoever is deserves a pat on the back!
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Idk he’s been really busy controlling the weather
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I chatted with @ChrisLips yesterday and the hubs/bearing spacing themselves are indeed wider. When others purchase the tank wheels for their lorentz boards, it comes with a longer replacement axle for the lorentz too. Axle space is pretty tight with my street lorentz wheels and duality trucks, so I’m not sure if there will be enough axle space for the tank wheels.
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The total width of the hubs is no bigger than 62.5mm and the bearings are inset from that. It’ll be fiiiiiine
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playing games with Inductance.
doesn’t that zap ESCs to have too long of a power wire?
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It’s a valid point but I can’t see the length of that wire even being a metre long and i’ll implement what measures i can to minimise inductance.
I know there are severall discussions here regarding this, when it approaches battery time i’ll look it all up and link here accordingly!
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Adding a capacitor bank near the ESC would mitigate the wire inductance. How much you need - idk 
but use good quality low ESR ones if you go this route
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I reckon i could likely manage something like that. Battery is a LONG way off yet, so plenty of time to consider, although the ideal location for it would be inside the central ESC box, so I will need to consider the size requirement when designing it.
From memory, I believe @malJohann used a cap bank with his backpack battery for his Morpheus build… many years ago now. I’ll look that up later and see if there was any useful info there
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Ok! So after quite a lot of fucking around and finding out, I have the dualities mounted correctly and everything seems to be fitting quite well.
I have the 5 degree baseplate wedged at the front and the 15 dewedged at the rear. I am definitely concerned about deck/foot bite at the front and think i’ll likely need to flip that front hanger as well as riser/extension plate to push it out a bit further but I have to wait for the wheels to determine that.
The enclosure/deck interface is awesome. It comes with an adhesive rubber that sticks down to the deck to seperate deck and enclosure, and all of the holes line up PERFECTLY. It’s actually quite amazing considering some of the combos I’ve fucked with in the past… looking directly at you here Lacroix
There’s predrilled holes in the enclosure that i’m gonna end up filling in, but i’m gonna try and use the ones at the very back, will just need to design some sort of pass through plate.
Anyway, until the wheels arrive, this project is back on the shelf, i need to finish the van!
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I REALLY love the concave on this deck!!! 
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I haven’t even stood on it yet but just looking at it, i feel like the wings kick up a little too aggressively to be comfortable for long range riding. The width of the deck is pretty much dead flat and then just kicks up at the wings. Not as aggressively as a Kaly, but it looks pretty hectic to me.
I’ll be making stomp pads for it in any case, to cover/protect my phases, so I can tune the concave with those if need be. Will likely aim for similar concave depth but with mellower curvature and some slight W
I don’t think the outer part flare up too much. Granted I’ve never tried one so idk how it really feels.
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It’s not that it flares up too much and more how aggressively it turns up over a small distance
I’d prefer the concave to be spread across the width of the deck, rather than just 1.5 inches on either side.
Concave is a very personal preference tho, i’m sure this works for many.
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I can’t imagine riding my journey on a board with edges curved up like that – my heel would probably die from such a weird stance. 
I went with the Flux precisely because its deck is almost flat.
That said, the curvature of the whole deck looks super sexy, but does it actually flatten out when you step on it? If not, it must feel like a really unnatural stance, in my opinion. Just as unnatural as on the Onsra Velar – my feet were killing me when I tried that one 
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I don’t think it will flatten much to be honest, but if i do find that curve too much i can tweak that with the stomp pads as well.
But yeah, comfort while riding is a priority so the stomp pads are likely to go through a series of revisions to get them just right.
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I hated those kaly kicks. others loved them.
i think this is another space where it’s more what you got used to then you hate the other. so it’s hard to get an objective opinion.
for my raceboards, my foot would tear up the grip off the edge of back foot. and i would wonder if more kick there would help. (pegs or screws for super grip does.. 
) but for a long distance cruiser i think you don’t need kick at the edges.
opinions are like …
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