Good choice…
Now that I think about it. The motor temp cut was quite sudden to me. It’s coming back now. In 4WD, one of the unity (front) cut due to thermal, the rear kept running, even so, it gave me an oh shit moment.
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Can I see faults in the Unity android app, or do I need to connect to a windows PC via USB and use the VESC application?
I’ll reflash and turn off thermal throttling. That seems like a “do no harm” type thing to try. It’s super shitty weather here right now, so probably not until the weekend unless these storms let up.
Aren’t motor temps quite important to keep on eye on with direct drive though?
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I don’t think the app can see faults unless it’s hidden somewhere I never saw. Have to do USB to PC and run focbox tool (not vesc tool, not on 23.46 anyway. FW5 went back to vesc tool)
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It is but it’s not. the TB motors are quite beefy and he’s running at 60 motor amps, they should handle that just fine unless he’s absolutely full throttling it up a mountain. Hub motors are much more susceptible to overheating.
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Performance, reliability, price - pick 2. I specifically tried to pick reliability and then performance.
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For now I’m happy to turn this off as a test. It’s still cool here and I’m not riding more that 20-30 minutes at a time. It seems very unlikely that I could burn up a motor right now.
If I have to leave thermal throttling off for the long run, then I guess I’ll have to figure something out. Right now I just want to solve the immediate issue.
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When it stopped accelerating, did touching the remote throttle make any change or absolutely no different?
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I let off the throttle as soon as it happened, but when i got back on the throttle it seemed normal. I was pretty spooked though, so maybe not the best judge of normal…
I had a similar issue last week where out of nowhere my throttle dropped from 100% to 75% with me changing nothing. If I let off the throttle, I could free roll fine. If I throttled at all, it almost felt like I was braking. Went back to normal after a few seconds.
Anything plugged in to your uart port? If not, is uart disabled?
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When you configured PPM, did you make sure to have the remote in it’s highest setting? I know the VX1 supports two different PPM mappings, and I believe the puck supports variable modes as well.
VESCs freak out when PPM values go over 100%
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@Venom121212 - Yes, I’ve got a DAVEGA X plugged into the uart port.
@NullReference - Yes, I’m sure it was in the highest setting when I calibrated PPM, but that’s a good call out and I’ll be sure to confirm that after I flash and reconfigure.
FWIW, I had been riding for a couple of minutes before this happened and a lot of that time was at full throttle, so if exceeding 100% was the issue I expect it would have happened earlier in the ride.
Hmm I had an og davega running with unity with no issue but just for fun you could try disabling uart if nothing else works for you. Fixed my issue immediately.
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I am having the exact same issue! Not when going uphill (I only need 50% throttle to zoom up the steepest hills in my area), but when hit the throttle 100% while starting from stop, I get a brief cutout after about 2 seconds of acceleration. I will upgrade my firmware and report back.
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Have Had the same issue before
Very bad crash on my 4wd board as one of my unities cut out.
Very stupid mistake on my end
Then again with a new build. Lucky for me I was going slow enough that My feet didn’t leave the board
Disabling motor thermal throttling fixed the issue for me 
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I think the 12s5p 21700B has a 100A continuos and a 175 peak…If that it is correct and I am not drunk enough (i think)…You are hitting max currect and some kind of protection it is kicking in to avoid damage…the best settind would probably be 50A for each motor 40A reg motor, 50 bat max 30 bat mas reg…total max bat 150A…10A cut off just in case…You could push motor amps much more…just be aware of Bat amps for those cells…cheers…nice saved by the way…
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I also want to add…do not trust any battery vendor…not many 21700 cells could push 30 amps continuos for real… Mooch tests are a great source…so you cous set up the correct values at your vesc-tool, to be shure you could use https://calc.3dservisas.eu/?Rc8xC8IwEAXg_5JZ5NqkrbpGcVICgt1thwi2CXQU_7v3nlG378Ldu9zT3Hw0O_O4p9mstDhrYdedevEXdVWTQdlQXuVEhMUeVV2MHluakFkpMzIsgE77mcsBr47CEFZkRnE8M6klf0FD9CVpiAfVRsgrxh08-ZI08dsd30KCHfnfP_n0vWzsF1Bw8Hg8wQ3Zo70FsW0r5vUG to have a better look of settings and performance… cheers again…woooow so drunk now…
What about the absolute maximum current setting? I once had this kind of behaviour because I had the absolute max (which means a fault is thrown) about the same as my motor max. So I got cutouts when current spikes occurred. I have it at 150A on my OG FOCBOX.
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Yes…you are right…but when I check the values at the esk8 calculator, max amp was 175…so I jut put a 150 conservative…not a bad ide to go lower, like 120…
This is not really about your battery, it’s a protection for the system. We are talking about very very short current spikes that occur for milliseconds but are seen by a vesc and when the absolute max is exceeded the system throws a fault.
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