I need some advice for my broken Hoyt Dadbod. Here is what happened. This board is powerful and great but I only complain it due to the fact that it is over engineered and is not compatible with other esk parts without ditching the whole trucks and everything. So, the issue happened back in 2025 when I had to swap belts. Yes, I am a rookie in Esk8 DIY and I didn’t have a kitchen torch to lossen the loctite screws on the rear truck. As a result, I went to a school mechanical workshop to ask for help loossening the bolts with a propane torch.
More issues came in 2026. I had to remove those loctite 242 screws again but didn’t know that a simple small kitchen torch would easily do the job when I needed to sawp belts. So, I went to a new school mechanical shop and asked for advice from unprofessional instructors there. Guess what happened: they forced me to drill that screw out causing metal shavings to get pulled inside my stock Zoobomb Flipsky 6384 motor (righ side problem only). And later I found out that I could easily use a torch to remove that screw and sawp belts.
Here is the problem: since I need to clean the shavings I had to learn how to remove that loctite motor gear and C-clips and the black rings but I damaged the C-clip due to forgetting to remove the Woodruff Key and forcing the C-clip out of the shaft.
I put the damaged loose C-clip back in with the back bent rings beneathe it and put everything and test-rode it 30 MPH in heavy traffic. No problem, except that C-clip was loose but still held the motor shaft in place somehow. After that I went back home and disassebled it hoping that i could reshape the C-clip to secure it better but only broke it more. Now, the motor shaft is loose and I cannot ride my Dadbod.
My final question is that I cannot find a new Dadbod stock 6384. Should I :
Swap both motors to something else and program my existing MakerX D75 to make it compatible with the two new motors?
Find a new stock Zoombomb 6384 and only removing the deck to plug the new motor into the ESC?
Complete change the trucks, wheels, gearbox, 6487 motors and Jecnn ESC all from Linnpower? Which I don’t know if they are compatible with Hoyt and how to program it.
Finding a hard way to heat the Woodruff Key and remove the C-clip correctly and put a new one back in to keep using the stock motor?
Thank you guys I know this is long, but I genuinely need help from you guys, the pros!!!
secret option c make a trip to nyc and let me help you for god sakes bro like you actually need help if you wanna get anywhere I can help you with It and the motor I have a spare set of those on hand or Flipsky 6384 190kv motors work aswell only difference is the motor can is black vs the custom color and custom bearings inside etc but good enough to ride
another issue you will have if you do the install yourself is vesc programming and tuning you don’t know how to do that properly you are bound to fuck it up even more but that’s just my opinion
that works dude let me help you because right now you aren’t to far off from saving the board but the more you keep trying to do things you don’t know what you are doing the worse it can get tbh
Grab the key itself by the exposed flats with vice grip pliers, you should be abke to pluck or rock it out. Dress the faces and edges of the key with a file to ease reinstall.
If you cannot budge the key with vice grips, you’ll need to clamp the shaft in a vise (marring it, requiring hand dressing afterward) go at it with a sharp chisel. The move is to dig into a short end or long edge at an upward/outward angle.
Outside eared circlips for an M10 shaft can be had from McMaster.com
If you simply cannot save the shaft, any cans with 44mm screw circle that fit between your motor plates can be made to work smoothly with your MakerX VESC.
Pick other 10mm shaft cans, you can reuse the motor pulleys too.
If you have fancy plugs for your motors, you can either chop the harnesses of your old cans & graft to new, or make a simpler bullet to MR60 adapter harness w/o sensor wires if ypu’re lazy, run sensorless. Running sensorless used to mean giving up zero-rpm torque. Not anynore.
That doesn’t look too bad actually, maybe it’s not showing up in the picture but i can’t see anything concerning there. If you think the enamel is damaged but the copper is still in good shape you can enamel coat the whole mess. Glyptal 1201BQ Is the product iv seen though i haven’t used it personally - just googling around. Maybe someone has a better product to suggest? Ive used high temp epoxy to try to lock in loose stator windings but it was such a pain - the product i used was more like the epoxy used on the magnets than a paintable epoxy and i would use paintable epoxy on my next go round
You can also get some retaining compound (loctite 648) for the for the motor pully and key. It will absolutely need heat to remove but will lock the pulley in place even if you lose the outer circlip. Definitely will want to get a torch - i like a small flame map torch and use aluminum foil to protect anything in the flame path that could get scorched - a couple layers will do a good job
Also: anyone have a good link to motor circlips and or shims? My old links are dead. Im probably gonna need to pick some up soon also and having a spare around is nice
MG Chemicals 4228A – Red Insulating Varnish works very well, and it wicks down in between the windings as well. Just make sure it doesn’t touch any bearings, bearing seats, or axles … and it can pretty much be anywhere else in there.
I never tried Glyptal 1201BQ so I can’t easily compare the two. Thought it looks like more of a paint whereas MG Chemicals 4228A is specifically made for motor windings.
I regularly use MG Chemicals 4228A to keep abrasive brake dust and metal shavings out of the windings. In theory it lowers the wattage of the motor while increasing the reliability, trading one for the other. But I suspect the wattage reductions won’t be an issue unless you are already running your motors extremely hot, which I think most non-racers are not.
you’re gonna find advice here so helpful 
