charge at like 4-5C here and there, at least always just above 1C, discharge to the absolute limit, sometimes multiple times a day, and they’re still kickin round no problem after at least a year of use
The soft cutoff for me serves as sort of a low voltage alarm, lets me know that i’ve hit 3.7 and I should probably stop riding but leaves me enough range to get somewhere in a pinch. I haven’t tested how much range I get from my soft to hard cutoff but I would guess 2 or 3 miles maybe.
Lipo = cheaper, less sag but way less lifespan then Lion. Cheaper therefore only in initial cost. Hope you have factored that in to your decision making.
lipos are more “power dense”
liions are more “energy dense”
i found my liion packs have ~2x as much Wh compared to my liions for a given volume
but my lipos have >2x the output current capabilities for a given 1p set
pick and choose how you like, just be sure you understand what you’re getting into
in rerms of pricing, you can go for cheap packs, but if you get a good liion cell and a good lipo pack, the $/Wh will end up being roughly the same
Plus it depends on the quality of the lipos. The ones I got, CNHL. From what I heard their good for the price, I’m sure anybody that rocks those can vouch for that. For the budget I had, these were the next best thing to get
So for sure the end should be 37v that’s where the board will stop completely, that’s the end, the start could maybe be close to that so it starts to slow down
don’t forget lipo voltage bounces back, so 3.7V under load may actually be 3.8-4.0V sitting
and lipos like to sit around 3.7V for most of heir discharge cycle, i recommend 31-32V end, that way it’l be roughly 3.7 ish at the bounceback. set the start to wherever you see fit while none of the cells dip below 3 per, long as you keep you cells balanced, wchich the bms will take care of
if you’re confused just leave the cutoff settings to be stock, vesc is more conservative
Wow, I’m still learning, people are always talking about way less cycles on lipo. I’m super careful with how I treat and charge mine (if not using for more than a few days I always leave at storage voltage). But they are just regular Turnigy so don’t know how well they will hold up against a lipo pack.
The fact that you didn’t even include higher options in your poll means it’s rigged to show you what you want to hear only, and the results will be meaningless. So you should just set your cutoffs whereever you want to, and destroy your batteries if you want to. It’s your stuff.
Only if you have spot welder and other materials already. Otheriwise, Lipos are 3 times cheaper and take 5x less time to to build. I built around 7 Li-ions when I first got into esk8. Never again. Lipos for life.
The Lipo low lifespan comes from the RC world where they absolutely hammer their batteries. Pulling 70 amps from tiny 1.3ah batteries. If you treated the Li-ion batteries the same way, their lifepsan would drastically reduce too.
I have always used 3.6v personally as the cut off. The idea being that 3.6v under load would probably be 3.7v resting due to voltage sage. Never had an issue. I think 3.7v might be good for high end very low IR lipos where there is no voltage sag but they are pricey and not really needed. .
Again. I looked at the chart you sent and 37.10v is the sweet spot, not low. Perfect spot, should set it either the soft or hard, most likely hard if I’m correct