Yep, once you learn the difference between a 1,2, and a 3 you will have far less problems. However, still would rather something else to put some ass behind.
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Yeah but then you get the posidriv kick in the ass and youâre back to being mad
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Regular flat head, again with proper bit, you can get more than enough torque. I use a lot of flat panheads and square nuts. Mostly for vintage looks, but the simplicity is nice.
Put some washers under the nuts. Your entire weight rests on them, so you want as much surface area as possible or your weight will pull the nut through the wood over time.
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For sure there is a right tool for the job but Phillips canât beat hex in the number of contact points, surface area of contact, and material mass that wonât mar out when you need the torque.
I have no problem using Phillips head in some applications but when torque and repeated removal is anticipated
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cough torx cough
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Not disagreeing completely. But, removing said bolt should have a nut correct? Then you should loosen from the nut side. What are we talking about again?
^^^^
imo if it has to be a screw and canât be a bolt, torx > literally anything
fuck external torx and 12 point
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It should be hex/torx and a washer, this setup is okayish for now but it will be annoying down the line when the heads are stripped and the deck is damaged
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changed all my mercâs wheel bolts to regular hex heads because of this. Mercâs got that shit everywhereeeee
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i did put washers, they are just the same length as the nut
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Have you thought about using sex bolts to secure the enclosure to the deck like the mtb guys use to secure their lunch boxes?
could even epoxy the ânutâ part into the deck so you only have to use one tool
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i might have to, i have been struggling to find long enough m4 screws locally to even do a regular nut mount, the ones that came with the enclosure are like half the length necessary
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In before Brian calls them cheese bolts.
Theyâll hold a shitty mboards enclosure just fine.
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Oh whoops, my bad. You should ban Mr. Phillips too 
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