This link is broken for me. These are what I ordered
And I put JB Weld 8265-S original formula on the threads
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I use these. https://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-3-8-Brass-Slotted-Drive-Knife-4ZU69?cm_sp=Home-
I still use epoxy, but good luck getting out regardless.
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The ez-lok inserts work great IF you get them to work.
I’ve seen two failure modes. One is if the hole is slightly too small then it will pull up the top layers of ply and leave a mangled mess.
The second is if your installation torque is too high (meaning you need a bigger hole) the installation tool will strip the slots out. The brass they use is very brittle, it has something having to do with no lead and machinability.
I’ve never stripped the threads out though. They’re beefy, thick walled, and have well formed threads.
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If you get the E-Z lock kit it comes with the drill bit you need.
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Probably more expensive but this is the matching one for the ones I use. We order through grainger where I work.
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These are M4 brass threaded inserts for use with the tool that @mmaner mentioned. However, i don’t use the tool. I made my own tool.
This is a video. They used to display the play icon here but i guess they got retarded. click to view it on insta.
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I’m using EZLock, failed at first try, using a hand drill and destroy the top of the insert half way in. I continue with just using some screw that shorter than the insert and screw them in gently, it works.
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Was looking at some threaded inserts, do these look good? the outside threads seem a bit small to grip well but I’m not sure.
i would use at least M4.
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You use the m3 ones? Was looking for something for my trampa board and you guys have this handy thread here! Thanks 
As for screws that go into the inserts, I was thinking to choose ones that are ~3mm longer than the inserts to account for enclosure and gasket and countersunk washer thickness. Seem about right?
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Exact ones I use.
Yeah m3 x 6mm.
No other way to know except trying. I ended up using 10mm but depends if you use padding in between.
Mine goes
screw - spring washer - regular washer - enclosure - 1mm foam - insert
Total of 24 screws.
I used m3 as opposed to a larger size because I wanted to take out as little plastic as possible from the enclosure but who knows. probably doesn’t matter.
Also I drilled m4 holes into the enclosure. You would have to be some kind of alignment wizard to be able to use m3 holes in the enclosure and align them perfectly to 20+ m3 inserts. m4 would give a slight leeway.
Be interesting to hear other peoples thoughts.
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I use the self tapping SS hard wood inserts and they dont come out very easily. I dont reccomend epoxing them to the deck because if you strip one then you are SOL. I have stripped one and if i used epoxy it would had been a nightmare.
Could you fill with epoxy, drill it out and tap a thread into epoxy?
You could, but epoxy is WAY less strong than metal, and also less wear resistant, so that’s a rather terrible idea overall.
Using epoxy to repair a hole for a metal thread insert, maybe. But I certainly wouldn’t trust fasteners threaded straight into an epoxy hole.
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Could you not retap the stripped hole?
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I’ve had luck using the SS m4x8mm uxcell inserts off amazon. Hole size is of paramount importance as others have stated. Feel like I’ve got it down now. Drop of gorilla glue in the hole, insert and thread a bolt in and out while wiping off with a rag a few times before glue completely cures to keep threads clear.
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Do you guys use locktite between the screw and the insert?
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