Well that’s awkward, just went out on a ride and the board only hit 43 km/h. Granted I wasn’t fully charged, but on 50% battery that’s way too low. I wonder if I’ve been given 150kv motors or something by accident
Or my conservative duty cycle current limit start setting of 80% is to blame…
I guess switching to 190kv motors is a must. (Currently using 170kv I believe)
Also, the wheels at the rear sit awfully close to my feet. And I’m not sure if I like the trucks yet, might have to switch to krank bushings. Possibly tire balance is to blame. Worst case get a different drivetrain
Charged up fully unloaded it’s 50km/h but loaded only 46 km/h. Trucks haven’t killed me yet, so that’s good. What’s strange is that carving feels strange, switching from side to side the back truck does a small wobble back and forth as if it’s making up its mind still. Definitely not confidence inducing. Bushing swap it is.
I might have to lower the tire pressure as well to decrease the current bounciness. Currently at 4 bar I’m getting 23Wh/km, which would be around 48km of theoretical range from the planned 1123Wh nominal pack.
Trucks definitely feel a lot nicer now. The rear truck wobble is gone. And I actually feel somewhat confident riding the board. However I do feel less comfortable on this setup than when it was urethane, and the return to center is super strong, especially in the rear. If this setup still works when I switch to 190kv then it will be what I ride, but after Carve I might experiment with Riptide WFB bushings to get rid of some of that self-centering rebound.
Btw, I have the rear pretty tight to avoid accidental shoe bite, so as a result my turning radius is only slightly better than it was on RKP. So much for TKP magic, lol.
Spent Friday evening and Saturday cutting nickel, chopping corners, gluing cells and welding them. Learned an important lesson to not put too much pressure on the weld probes – the welds don’t stick at all then lol
7 packs (14 rows) welded, 4 more to go. (If my battery and welder didn’t heat up I could do them all at once, so I’ve been tactically welding 2 groups and then letting it cool.) Then comes dremeling the cases and all the soldering. Not sure how much of that I’ll do tomorrow though, as I have an event I’m organizing next week I should prepare for.
I also disassembled my gear drives so that I could swap them to 190kv motors. I applied a bit too much green theradlocker, because it was really tough to get the motors off. Now my pinions are oil slick
My 190kv motors need bullets replaced and wires extended, and with the cans now a bit damaged from me hammering the motors out, I didn’t want to use the motors I had. Paid the big bucks and bought 2 190kv 6384 Flipsky motors from Apex. Should arrive tomorrow
I’ll use less threadlocker this time round. In case I have a gear break I want to be able to swap to belt drive without much pain. After Carve I will probably switch to Hoyt’s Rosa trucks because I need more width for my big feet. Or maybe Fatboy 270mm RKPs, not sure. The current 8mm truck axle scares me.
@jack.luis Would newbee’s hubs fit on the Rosa trucks you think? I dig their look.
Anyway, back to the present. Didn’t get as much done as I wanted because my friends wanted me to join for video games, but I started soldering the wires for the packs. At first it took me 1h per pack, but after a while I got it down to 40min per pack. 7 packs done, 5 more to go
Also, a 200IQ move I’m going to do –
My mountainboard uses 140kv Flipsky motors, which have extensions soldered to them. Want to keep them. They have a cut shaft.
But the motors arriving from Apex are the perfect length for their jump drives + have the additional circlip groove at the end. So what I can do is swap the cans between the motors, and then I won’t need green threadlocker when assembling my jump drives
(Will just be a bit awkard having a motor can that says 190kv on it when the stator is really 140kv )
)
