The BRO | 12S8P | Haero Bro Model | E-TOXX Dual Direct Drive | 170kV 6374 Maytech Closed Can | Dual VESC 6 |

over heating a few mile in?
Im still going back and forth with them on this.
They want me to buy more motors at discount.
Why do I want more motors if 6 of them over heat when on a bench?..

Maytech needs to step up the QC and be a little more helpful when things are bad on their end.
I can give some snippets of the email if needed. Sad to see this happen to more than me, but maybe this will help to prove to them, there is/was an issue with some batches.

I was told no one at all reported issues, etc etc. again I can provide snippets if needed but I digress.

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I emailed them to see what the issue might be. Hopefully I get some answers for us.

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If outside temperatures are over 30C and you ride aggressiv it’s very likely that your motors overheat. I get my open APS 6384 over 80C in 10-15min if it’s hot outside.
Wouldn’t say it’s a maytech problem. More a problem of the motor design and the way we use them.

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Went for a ride today at 28C after talking to Maytech. When I addressed the issue with Maytech, they said because of the design of the sealed motors it is typical for them to run hotter and the max temperature of 90-100 should be no problem. After a quick ride to the store I realized the Metr wasnt recording so this log is after the motors had gotten up to running temperature already. Unfortunately during the ride I noticed towards the end that the acceleration had been pretty much squashed. I was full throttle and only gradually accelerating compared to before. There were times when I experienced a stutter effect as well where the motors were only receiving limited power thought it looks like temps were staying under 75c for the most part. What might have caused the loss in acceleration and power cuts?

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Temp cutoff settings of your vescs.

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Interesting you say that because the metr does say max temp hit 85c but the graph only says 75c. When the stuttering happened I didnt see the temps up past 75c. My motor cutoffs where set at 80c/ 95c. I will up them to 90c/105c and see if it helps at all.

Edit- I changed the metr graph view and can see where I hit cutoffs on motor temps

Keep in mind the acceleration temperature decrease will lower the maximum temperature during acceleration to leave room for braking, this is why it’s cutting before reaching the values you’ve set

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Good you’re here.
3S Lipos are too much for them?

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If so, only by .6v when the battery is fully charged. I think he mentioned 7v-12v input

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I haven’t personally tested, but I have a friend that is running one from a 3S pack, let me check with him if he did test it with the battery fully charged

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Because I accidently ordered a second light with the replacement. :joy:

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All good, he’s been running it for a few days with no issues

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I do not have exactly this light, but I run all my 12V lights and LED strips with a 3S battery. So far so good, no issues even if full charged.

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Im calling BS on that.
I have 6 motors (well had 6 over heating 10mm shaft motors.)
I have four 8mm Maytech in the same 190kv etc etc.
The 8mm have no issues and can run them at 12s lipo
all day, up hill, etc etc. They are great!
This is why I bought 6 more but decided to go 10mm shaft since
the 8mm one is shorter and I need length for the builds I have.

Now if sealed is the issue, why does 8mm sealed motors work fine but the 10mm ones don’t get but a few miles then feel like the sun? Im calling BS, since my real world testing shows otherwise.
Seems Maytech is trying to make it your fault somehow imo.

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I bought them with some other items using PayPal. Should I do a chargeback and return the motors? I feel I have a decent case for defective item.

What kind of lights are those?

They are from Lacroix

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This is my favourite MBS build so far. @ShutterShock

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What do you mean? I’m standing on the Hitchhiker’s line. :smile:

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The shutter man hit up an mbs build as a haero

I was just ragging on him. I am not a nice person.

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