That’s a nice fan! But as you said, I don’t think the motor is going to be spinning fast enough for it to generate enough airflow to make a difference. Was thinking about something like a powered CPU cooling fan, but I’m not sure that would make much of a difference either.
Kind of feels like treating the symptom and not the cause.
I feel ya. I don’t have great thermals on my 80100 motor either, this model line was really made for airplanes to give them ram air cooling
Glamour shot for 2022 BotY - thanks @BenjaminF . I’ll opt to put this in the innovation category. It’s not an esk8, so probably fits best, and I probably do 50/50 when it comes to street vs offroad anyway.
It’s a bit dirtier/banged up now, and I like it, looked way too clean in some of those other ‘just finished’ photos.
Thanks for the nomination BTW @Flyboy
I know you’re still fine tuning it, but how does it feel now compared to the pint?
The best answer I can really give is “different”, but that’s a cop-out. I honestly don’t have enough OneWheel experience; in ride time or board variety, to be a great judge here. I’d like to get others’ feedback at some stage but need to be confident in the board first. The local (Melbourne, Aus) OneWheel group seems fairly active, although I’m not sure how down the VESC rabbit hole any of them have gone.
I really need to figure out some good back-to-back performance tests; something less subjective than ‘feels good’. If it’s beating the Pint it’s at least in the same ballpark as other OneWheels. I’d love something like a OneWheel dyno.
I ride the Pint with 18psi in the tire, always thought that’s just the way OneWheels ride. This thing I keep at about 12psi or so, I’m pretty sure the tire has a slow leak and settles around this pressure. Its tire is 0.5 in bigger in outside diameter, and 1in smaller on the inside diameter (5in hub); that adds up to a fair bit more sidewall. There’s none of that getting bounced side-to-side like on the Pint, and a lot of the bumps (say up to an inch) you really notice on the Pint just seem to not be there. But then maybe an XR with low pressure and its wider tire would be the same 
It’s quicker than the Pint; both in top speed (not by much) and acceleration. I’ve not tried field weakening yet so that could potentially bump up the top speed. Not hitting any battery limits (30a is about the max I’ve seen from a 12s3p p42a), and the VESC doesn’t seem to be overheating. I did some stationary hill starts on a concrete path and really stomped on the front, this it handled well. Repeating the same on a similarly sloped grass hill gives moments where it feels like you need to be careful/backoff. The Pint kind of always feels like that on grass.
Interestingly there’s no feel of belt slop. Rocking back and forth in the spot feels very much like the Pint. Hasn’t skipped a tooth yet either. Not that it would skip a single tooth; it’s more likely any skip would kick the PID loop into overdrive and shred the belt entirely.
I don’t know if you’re aware of the float wheel (mass produced VESC board currently being developed/manufactured) , but they recently teased the idea of a belt driven version.
There’s a Reddit thread here about it, with a few opinions on the topic, some will be more helpful than others. Something I didn’t know is that the original onewheels were belt driven
The floatwheel guy has actually been commenting on my YouTube video, interested to see if he goes anywhere with the belt idea. I’d say it sounds like he has a bit of spare time right now with the New Year going on, but otherwise, you’d think he’d be really quite busy. Seems to be making impressive progress!
There’s been some fun takes on various social media sites. This one is still my favorite.
I do get the concern about the belt slipping; it’s obviously a much bigger issue here than on an esk8. I don’t think people quite get how stiff/strong these belts are. It’s the same belt spec used by quarter midget race cars (dirt karts), htd8m belts are often used to power car superchargers (albeit at a 75mm width). It should be possible to engineer a system that will never slip for thousands of kms.
I think most people are stuck on htd5m which definitely skips at extreme torque, or when mount bending occurs
Yeah, I could definitely skip the two htd5m belts under heavy braking on my Trampa.
Here’s one of Kyle’s OneWheel prototypes (ref).
Looks like a 10mm htd5m belt, so I’m not surprised he switched it over to a chain drive. There’s also this example of a belt drive onewheel that didn’t work out so great.
Yeah if I could work out a tensioning/idler system and weld the wheel pulley to the axle or integrate a keyway to stop it slipping, the 5m might be ok, but I think my motor is too small/high kv regardless. I really just cbf after 4-something years of trying.
The floatwheel guy seems intent on using a 63mm motor, with a 5m belt. I’ll be curious to see how that works out. Be great if it did as you’d be able to get much higher reductions, but I still have my doubts.
This project started back in 2018, so I totally get the CBF factor. I’d box it all up from time to time and forget about it for a year. It’s the kind of thing that is meant to be fun, so if it’s not stop doing it, well that’s my thinking anyway. That Fungineers build will work out awesome!
This is such an awesome project… Have you considered using a 2 stage reduction via an additional jackshaft. You could use a 4:1 reduction using 1.5 mod gears. Losi has some really nice straight cut gears (pinions are 8mm). Then you could increase your kv closer to 200kv
Thanks!
So I see two ways forward; a much bigger motor with around the same kv, or a two-stage reduction with the same sized motor but higher kv. Gears make the most sense for the first stage, mainly due to packaging, but also two steel 1.5mod gears seem pretty solid. Also, torque on the first stage is much lower than second. Definitely thinking about it.
The bigger motor will be tough packaging wise (thinking 80mm to 107mm), I’ll need to raise the rear footpad (higher cg = bad on onewheels), and it’ll stick out the bottom even more. Will need new motor mounts. This bigger motor is a bit more exotic (single source/ $$$) than the 80100 which are everywhere. It’s also double the weight.
The two-stage reduction should be easier to package. Will need to design and machine a gearbox setup. More mechanically complex, but would probably still be lighter than the bigger motor solution. I think it’s the more logical solution.
You could always put the motor above the wheel, on top of a wheel cover structure
That would make it even more impossible to carry than it already is, with the wheel sticking out
What if you put the motor inside the wheel, but it wasn’t direct drive?
Like so? I also think that’s an interesting solution…
There’s nothing in this video that isn’t in this thread already, but hey, if you feel like wasting 30 minutes of your life listening to me rant on about OneWheels. . .
Respect to those YouTubers that put out quality content. There’s a whole lot of effort that gets put in that you just don’t notice until you try to put together something yourself 
This cool project inspired me to try to make one my self. I made some 3d drawings but u cant decide what motor to get preferably something with hall sensors and dimensions of roughly 70x200mm. does someone have recommendations?
