The "Ankle Wreacher" Stooge v5 SN28 Build - a journey with pictures (ESK8CON Prep edition)

Looks like you did the test at 12s so here’s a thought before you buy more lipos.

Moving up to 16s will make the iron losses worse than they currently are. Your free spin load could easily jump to 3.7kw.

Assuming you gear down the system with a smaller pinion, to keep the 50mph top speed, your motors rpm will be 33% faster than it currently is, all the time. This means more heat and worse efficiency.

Of course, I could be wrong about the source of your efficiency issues, but given the 2.8kw free spin, I think iron losses at speed are a safe bet. It seems unlikely you’d see high copper losses (resistive losses) with 4wd and those big chonker motors.

If you do move to 16s, it will be an interesting experiment to see if my theory is right or wrong. Very easy to test too. Just repeat your freespin test. :slight_smile:

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Yup, fully concur.
Probably won’t run a smaller pinion for this reason (except briefly for the meme)

Good point! I could plug 4 of my batteries in series right now and see how bad it is :thinking:

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he can then move to 8s4p if iron losses get worse. lol. :smiley:

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Working on stuff tonight

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Been a few weeks, feels like time for another update!

Today I present “Opportune 68V Bushings”


Mini IE race
esk8hustle hosted two i2s track days with informal race brackets.
@Ruxx Pushed held me back to 2nd on the first day, but I managed to stay in front on the 2nd day.

Was fun racing with everyone! Looking forward to the next one.
Thanks Michael(esk8hustle) for hosting and giving away an i2s engraved shortboard, trophies and a bunch of other prizes.


Deck Camber

Thanks @andoug for the mbs camber pads! They arrived without a scratch. I cut one apart, then peel and stick. Some Vicious in the middle. Easy as pie.

This is probably the best upgrade I’ve made to my board yet. It’s crazy how massive a change 5 degrees of deck camber makes. Makes me even more confident that I don’t want a binding on this board.


16s!

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My board is now two batteries heavier. Not too much else to say :rofl:

I also took this as an opportunity to put 1mm adhesive foam on the batteries, to keep them from getting scrapped up against the belly pan.

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Plugging the batteries in was more of a hassle then I expected. I fried two AS150s(with very loud pops). I guess 4x G300s at 16s is too much for AS150s. (don’t worry, I replaced em)

I have an old power resistor laying around that I salvaged from some electronics years ago. I touched either end to the male/female AS150 connectors to charge the capacitors, and after a couple seconds, I quickly dropped it and mated the AS150s. Janky solution, but it worked.

Smart Active Balancer

Upgrading to 16s meant that my 12s charging harness is obsolete. (And good riddens, with the design flaw it had. Read about it here:)

Also took this opportunity to incorporate a Smart Active Balancer into the board, letting me charge like a “normal” esk8 (no balance charger required).

It also lets me quickly check all of my cell voltages via iphone app(super nice for quick troubleshooting). I did measure 10~20mV drop over a few days in my testing, so it definitely has a non-negligible power draw. That’s fine though, as I’m riding this board every couple days.

Even with my new bellypan (which has been GREAT), There was no room to put it underneath the deck. The best place to put it was awkwardly wire-tied on top of the rear G300s. Not elegant, but it’s worked great for several track sessions without a single issue. Maybe I find a smaller smart BMS in the future.

I’ve been using a panel-mounted XT60 plug to charge, pictured above in roughly center frame. It connects to a 600W 72V charger, that I’ve adjusted down to 68V.

Here’s the new balance lead harness before I installed it into the board (no more DSUB!). Happy with how this came out. imo solder wire splices are underrated, especially for harness work like this

The big bundle ended up fitting perfectly between the G300s and the central spine of the frame Good luck getting a good view of it tho, this board has so much going on. This is the best I could get :rofl:


New bushings
Riding on track, I kept wanting to loosen the board. However, I reached a point where any looser would cause me to loose the center. Obvious solution, step down the duro.

My only gripe with 3-link trucks- you need to fully disassemble them to be able to change the bushings.

Massive gigga shoutout to @HAIRYMANJACK for sacrificing his hands to the process (and the help)

Between us, we were able to swap out the front and back in around 4 hours.

Narrower Wheelbase
Considering we had the trucks fully apart, we took the opportunity to narrow the wheelbase by ~
25mm in the front and back. This just required moving the motor mounts closer together to remove the gap between the motors- the wheel’s themselves could be brought in by removing axle spacers.

Small wrinkle, the motor mounts are connected via a threaded female-to-female crossbar.
But nothing an angle grinder and tap can’t fix.

Narrower wheelbase beauty shot


Esk8con Track
We’ve been setting up the @Esk8Con track at the San Diego zoo the past couple weeks. It’s a tight track!! Serious competition coming from @HAIRYMANJACK this year. (His times aren’t mine to share, but they’re quick)

Running with 16s hasn’t made any change to the efficiency to the board (as expected). However, the additional energy capacity has noticeably increased my range, I’m able to ride about 30% more every night.

Also, new personal best for power with 13.57kW. I’m still nowhere near peak performance :grimacing:


No load test

lol imagine 3.7kW of losses

Yeah, so, uh…I did a no-load test. Here’s the play by play:

  1. I spool up the motors over ~10 seconds with the board upside down
  2. The motors went go 30C to 40C.
  3. I backed off because I got a freaked by the loud gear drives
  4. I gave myself ringing in my ears and a splitting headache for the next hour.

TIL; don’t spin this up indoors.

All in the name of data…

73.2A * 61.8V = 4.52kW of freespin losses at 81kph(50mph)
F*ckin silly.

What’s ever crazier is right now it’s geared for a max speed of ~80mph(22:78 ratio), so if I understand things right the losses will go even higher if I dared to push it faster.
(I’ve got Vesc eRPM limited to ~60mph, but still)

TIL; don’t spin this up indoors. (Or at all, really).


When Moe posted a video of me riding at i2s OC this past Saturday,

I realized I’ve never posted riding footage. Shame on me!
Thanks @HAIRYMANJACK for capturing this candid, especially my save at the end.

Bonus vid: @MarioChacon taking a lap at i2s intro to garage


The real race board is the friends we made along the way
??? sure why not



Thanks @Lyfe_Of_Jimmy for these great photos! He’s got some great stuff on his insta and youtube, go check him out.

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jeti afc anti sparks is what you need

Oh wow, those would be awesome. noted.

You can also formalize your manual pre-charge power resistor by making a parallel connector (small bullet connector or whatever) that you connect first, then connect the AS150, then disconnect the pre-charge bullet connector.

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I stopped reading at the ethoslab reference :joy:

Damn replied to the wrong post

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Damn bro getting at it, nice!

Heck ya my guy, can’t wait to practice with you some more! I’m scared u have an even more nimble board now tho haha

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I second this, that strategy has let me get away with using XT90s connectors at 20s

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90 wh/mile no load freespin :exploding_head:

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Gets 8 miles of range ¯\(ツ)

8 miles of range from 1450wh battery? Is that racing or just like going out for a street ride?

It’s closer to 1200Wh (8x 4s 9500mAh lipo), but pretty much yup.

I only ride on track, this board doesn’t quite have the ground clearance to casually ride on the street😂

Just checked my Metr logs from the San Diego zoo esk8con track we set on Tuesday night, I discharged to 3.6v/cell. In total I rode 14.42 km(8.96 miles). So 8 miles is a slight exaggeration

(I typically only charge up to 4.15 and try not to discharge below 3.7)

My Megan has a bunch of readouts, including efficiency; when low speed cruising/warming tires I get (at best) 95Wh/mile, track racing nets me ~110Wh/mile

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charge to 4.25

unless you feel spicy! 4.30 V per

I uh…definitely didn’t do this accidentally and definitely didn’t intentially cut this detail from the post

After adjusting the power supply’s voltage with the exposed potentiometers to ~66.4v (4.15v/cell), i charged my board
Two hours later I checked on it, and the power supply’s output had shifted to ~68.5v.:grimacing: I guess the factory never burned it in?

I returned the potentiometer back down to 66.4v, and it’s been fine ever since. Hasn’t stopped me from neurotically checking the power supply voltage before and cell voltages after charging.

One of the pros of buying the cheapest 72v psu’s from Amazon, I guess

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I have the Jeti afc on v5#1. I think i also have an extra on hand.

you can also get QS8 with the bigger resistor (15Ω I think it is) that they use on the bikes.

EDIT: QS8 not AS150 … doh.

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