Tell that to my board. I’m about as salty as it got from the roads.
This would be a miracle. In the dark corners of my mind I have memories of my DV6 going up in a giant puff of black smoke. I just feel like that also happened to this D75 after getting the Aquaman treatment but I didn’t notice because rain/depress
I still have that drive, but I feel like I need to pivot away from underslung enclosures and high end sleek show-y builds. If my ESC is salvageable it’s going into a Pelican Case.
Im running a modded ammo case, free fire and waterproof enclosure!
Unfortunately ammo cases aren’t as common in my country, but Pelican cases can be found in ditches or got for free off friends.
UPDATE!
The DV6+ seems okay. Just flashed FW6 on it to be safe, and as it’s going to be set up from scratch again anyway, and it seems I can’t get 6.0 because VT6 keeps aborting it. Guess I’ll stick with FW5.3. motor functionality seems fine. Have yet to test UART and PWM.
Metr.pro seems to be dead. It’s sitting in alcohol and I’ll revise this when I know more.
One of the motors and drives seems okay, the other one is seized in multiple places; one of which is the large gear bearing in the BNM1 and the other is something inside the motor, TBA.
The enclosure has gone to a friend for reinforcement and finishing work, I’ll hopefully get it back in a stronger shape than the cracked mess I handed him.
Remote, idk. Willing to get a whole new remote or something if I can save enough on the battery.
Speaking of the battery, this was really defeating. I had checked the LLT app a few days after the incident but I was stupid and neglected to plug the battery in. Due to whatever problems were already present, all groups drained below 1v. My single cell bay charger doesn’t seem able to revive them. It’s a sad day and makes me want to shy away from battery building, especially with more pack makers operating in my country recently.
Will probably be selling my spot welder and LiPo packs.
damn yeah they nasty
So was the salty water able to get into your enclosure and coat your electronics?
I’m not entirely sure. The metr had some corrosion under the heat shrink but the VESC was perfectly clean and the battery only had slight salt residue on a single contact at the opposite end of my board to the metr.
My guess is one single little drop made it’s way in on both ends and did it’s damage to the first things it touched, which happened to be a metr.pro and half a p-group.
This just goes to show that “doing your best” at waterproofing just isn’t good enough. Aim for a hermetic seal, if you fail you’ll still have ingress protection.
I’m doubling down on my waterproofing efforts with this rebuild. New seals, better seals and more/better gaskets and glands.
With my earlier flat bottom esk8s, I usually still had slow water seepage into the enclosure even with water resistant approach (never meant or even tried to make the internal compartment completely waterproof).
So it could be that the water is slowly over a longer period of time worming it’s way in from different spots, like for example based on mounting screw locations, with more clamping force nearer the screws resulting in a tighter/better sealing fit and then opening up/loosening the fit a little bit between the screws.
That’s why I’m doubling up the seals, and I have more fasteners holding the enclosure on than needed for the sole purpose of having less “gap space” and more even clamping force.
Small update, I wired the LLT BMS up to a known good pack—no signs of life on the BT.
this really sucks because I can’t seem to find ANY 12s BMS locally or with any kind of quick delivery unless I’m willing to pay $60 for a dumb bms. I can find all the 13s BMS I ever want but 12s is seemingly rare unless I settle for AliExpress.
I just updated the pack to 13s using a small 10A BMS I pulled off a dead scooter battery and going to try not to brake for the first part of my rides, Does anyone know if I can use a VESCtool setting to prevent braking?
Metr is also kaput. Served me well over the passed few years. Idk what I’ll do for telemetry going forward.
Repainting and clear coating BNM1 drive casings.
Using glow in the dark coating so hopefully they glow. (Edit: they don’t)
New 6809-2RS bearings are I’m the mail.
Will probably try to forward mount the drives in the rebuild. (Edit: I can’t)
So… Too much torque for this wheel size.
Hit a small bump on a bridge going like 60 and lost control. Board hit a railing and the drivetrain broke itself off.
I’m okay, just rolled it out. But goddamn. That’s the 2nd deck this board has been through now.
I’m kinda hesitant on another switchblade though. I need some more strength especially on the truck mount.
Also looking into a temporary fix this weekend. My backup board doesn’t have a battery yet so this is my only ride right now.
Well, I don’t think any board is meant to survive getting hit against a railing, but darn, that really sucks.
Landyachtz now have the fixed blade, which is just a switchblade without the drop through holes, that you could mount your existing enclosure to. Or if I were you I’d look into Al’s Semendeed, or maybe switch to a basalt deck like Trampa or Kaly.
I guess if you’re already mounting It top mount as on the picture, It makes a lot of sense
I’ve had that happen in multiple stormcores on multiple occasions. one time it overwrote my motor settings with 60s on everything. Nevermind the other issues.
Truth.
I’ve had more than one dead bt module for no reason while the bms is fine. they seem to die on occasion, even without salty ingress. weirdly the bms is way more solid than the bt module it comes with.
I have like 4 BT modules and 3 questionable BMS units, swapping things around hasn’t yeilded results.
How do I get one of these? And don’t they cost like double what an LY would run me?
Like $600-800 I think to the USA. Not sure if that’s any more to canada
Must be a pretty amazing deck for that kinda dosh
