Gonna take a little test run, wish it wasn’t so wet out
Tantrum build: 210 dualities, tangent deck, 18s4p rs50, rs125s, d100s, custom brackets, BOTY 2026!!!
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Dat skid mark.
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Ok so got my stainless drilling technique down, but them taps are just hating life.
Significantly increased the life of my bits by increasing the rigidity of the drilling setup, this drill press is pretty sloppy but went over everything snugging it up as best i could and setup the vice to be able to do the drilling operation with more repeatability. Only cooked one bit but it had cut the majority of the holes before it chipped and stopped cutting well.
Tapping on the other hand. Ok so im using diddy party levels of lube and hand tapping. Going steady and backing off to cut chips on the 1/4 turn. Cleaning and clearing chips every two turns. Got some high quality taper taps from tacoma screw. Still only getting one good hole and half a second before it chips and stops cutting well. I have tapped a lot of holes and know taps are consumables but dam this is too much. Decided that getting the 4 tapped that are in the enclosure is good enough and through drilled all the others… also ran out of m5 taps 
.
If i do another set of brackets im going to do aluminum, so much easier to work with. Could anodize them too. These ss ones are gonna get painted like the last set a nice cherry red. Im thinking of painting the wheel hubs too. Gonna build up the red and lava theme. It’s almost rideable, but not everything is in it yet.
Cells and copper showed up (thanks @DIY500AMP.COM ) so im gonna glue up the last groups and finish off the 18s4p. I tested it with the 12s2p and i cant feel the weight difference. Dualities and rs125s are where all the weight is i think. It’s not light but it definitely feels lively
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I needed new baseplate hardware and they were out of steel 10-32 in the length I needed, but they had stainless.
I made sure to use hand tools to slowly cinch it down tight. The nylon nut was normal steel.
A few dozen miles later a rattle developed, and I busted out the tools to cinch them up in the park.
It instantly galled and locked up.
At home with better tools i unlocked it, but it was stripped and would not unthread.
I had used an ugly deck side fender washer, so was able to grind screw head off without schmemmilification of the deck, and tap it out with a punch.
I am pretty much done with threaded SS though. It galls too easily.
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Yeah thats the conclusion we came to at Hoyt. I wish I had filmed @jack.luis tearing the shop apart, magnet in hand, checking every single bolt and nut, hooting and screaming like a madman 
let’s just say there was some level of frustration at the time
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The worst was the stainless fucking nuts man like what the hell.
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Test fit between the two batteries and it feels heavier but not too significantly. I think it’s similar enough but im gonna sit on it for a moment before i weld it up. Working on the deck some
Sanded out the hump just until I could see the basal and stoped.
Didn’t like how if i over ran the screws it popped the plug out the top of the deck and messed up the finish, cut little sections of petg screw and superglued them into place. Tested it and it doesn’t let them jam but does stop them with enough strength i wont do it accidentally.
Re filled the holes and when it’s dry im gonna just strip it down into the paint so i can put some art on this thing. I think i am going to frit it. Messing with the art now but its gonna be a pinup of themis but angry and lava themed
Some of the inspiration photos im looking at from some image searching:
Gonna use the color scheme on the edges and brackets too
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I love the 18s4p layout.
RS50’s and 0.3mm copper.
Droool. 
I can’t help but think about potential ventilation and heat purging pathways on a setup like that, fully aware of the impracticably of implemetion.
Anf even though RS50s run so cool.
Very much appreciating this build.
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There really is a lot of airspace, all the cells have about 2 sheets of fish paper gap between them so i didn’t tape or insulate between the groups beyond just gluing th gaps. Should stay nice and cool. Probably going to swap to my other drives if i take this to eskate con just to have gears and 6485 motors. They both run the same hangers but id get better breaking on gears. Wish work wasn’t popping off or id have my usual slow December and January to get this done for boty. Don’t think ill make it by jan 1
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This build really looks nice @Pecos
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So after sanding a flat spot and prepping the deck for skinning it got a little more flex, to stiffen it ip a bit im gonna skin carbon fiber top and bottom. With brackets i don’t think it will eliminate all the flex but i want it to kill as much as i can.
prepping the frit i sifted the fine frit to eliminate the powder size particles as much as possible and get them to about sugar crystal size and above but got to playing and decided to keep messing around. Re sifted to pull everything bigger than the sugar crystal size into another bottle. Over the graphic im going to use the more fine frit to make a little delineating edge and use the more optical clarity of the smaller frit to help make it pop a little better.
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Is that Kevlar/cf mixer fabric 
Very pretty
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Ya it is, i dont really need it for its properties but it looked nice so - aesthetic choice 
On another note: More sifting of frits. The more consistent the particle size the more i like the end product. Seems to have better more consistent grip feel and behavior when embedding.
This is fine frit sifted into three groups with the ultra fine powder excluded and the medium frit sorted evenly into the larger half and smaller half of the sizes.
thinking im going to use the larger fine and smaller medium. Going to test on some popsicle sticks but im confident ill choose the same particle size. Should end up with something sticker than vicious grip on the foot pads and something about that on the body graphic
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Maybe so, but if I were you i’d make sure to run the carbon strands in the long direction!
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Im actually kinda disappointed because the length of the weft is not the carbon fiber 
and i thought that was what i was getting.But it’s actually the kevlar that is running the long length of the fabric though unless there is something i didn’t find it should still add significant stiffness to the deck. I was looking at linear cf weave for just the bottom to add maximum stiffness but decided on this favor for the color scheme and got enough to do both sides
Edit: watching a couple more videos and reading a bit… I might be getting some pure cf for the bottom now. Probably not a huge difference but im not really compromising on anything else here so why start with the skinning
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If you are unwilling to wait, and have enough material, Use two layers on the bottom at an angle to each other. This will add a more torsional stiffness.
Less twist, more response, perhaps even more so compared to a regular build, with those extensions concentrating the force.
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This is the large medium. sharper than it looks but the larger grain makes it deposit unevenly and need serious after glue to keep it secure. Very aggressive lift your foot to shift position grip
This is the small fine. Evenness of the texture got messed up by touches, but feel is on par with good grip tape. You can make out the grain of the wood under good light
This is the large fine. Good rendering and clarity and feels like aggressive grip tape
This is the small medium. Sticky af and kinda pixelates whatever under. Definitely lift your foot to move levels of grip still but sits more level has an even texture
The small fine got touched by curios people before it was fully set lol, nothing like glue covered glass to teach a lesson
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If you’re planning on using the Tomiboi straps, go with less aggressive frits. I find myself moving my foot for better turning on sharp turns even with bindings. If you wanna do a test, get some of those vicious grip or whatever ones @tuckjohn is using. Also I’m guessing you’re prob gonna use the Tomiboi straps more of a foot stop than actual bindings.
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