I’ve conducted a test. Board + old receiver in the same orientation in one room, 2 remotes in another.
The old one starts to drop while new one is solid.
I’ve replaced the pot not long ago just before the belt drive rebuild.
I’ve also replaced the battery for a better one.
So in the end it is radio signal.
Good test, i might take my vx1 apart and reflow it to see if that makes any improvement. I have a vx1 and an old mini remote that i want to keep working, the smaller miniature remote is not replaceable but is showing signs of needing to be replaced… 
Yea, good idea, I’ll try reflowing it with a heat gun too.
Very interested in the results, very curious what could cause link instability with age.
Still haven’t figured out what was up with radio link on the old one (few times it wouldn’t even connect on power up).
New remote started acting up after a small low speed crash. Turns out it was the potentiometer, they are really easy to damage, if you press too hard they can develop play in the axle. Replaced the pot with aliexpress one - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006047150333.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.22.3c911802MOyoF3
And finally it feels right, no dead zone, easy to manual/wheelie while applying throttle. I’ve tested these pots for a couple of weeks and can recommend them, so I’m posting a link.
I’ve been contemplating making my own remote, based on ELRS and STM32. ELRS receivers can be flashed with TX module firmware, so far they’ve been super reliable and provide super low latency. And I already know how to talk to VESC and ELRS through STM32.
Throttle needs to be redesigned from the ground up, I’ve gotten some Alps RDC9010006 resistors (10m cycles rated) and 678 Zz bearings.
But so far I got stuck with the bidirectional spring mechanism.
Motor check after ~500km
The glue and conformal coating held up.
Motor protection plate does its’ job.
Ok, 3rd design, I think it worked. There’s a spring inside the square plunger (taken from bic lighter, so it’s easy to source).
Moved to Serbia - Novi Sad.
Antalya was great for 2 years, but we’re not allowed to stay anymore. Was busy with the move.
Managed to get my good batteries on a flight (and the cat, and a 3d printer, and the drones, and 3 skateboards, and a bunch of electronics, that was not easy):
VX1 is a piece of trash. New one worked well, but in last month I had about 5 disconnects, where I had to reboot the remote to regain connection. So making my own remote is a must.
Remote power supply situation: charging module + 5v step up, step up works down to 2.5V:
Doesn’t look like much, but here are 2 elrs modules connected. Bottom one is flashed with “RX as TX”, both have binding phrase set. It doesn’t just connect after flashing, TX needs to be initialized by sending config with controller. Again I’m using stm32f103c8 flashed with bluepill bootloader. Stm32f103 should fit in the remote perfectly and it has 3 hardware serials, unlike arduino that only has 1 HW serial.
I’ll probably start with replacing guts of VX1 with stm+elrs. And then move to completely custom case with custom throttle. If I get it working, I might make a separate thread about it.
I kinda didn’t have much time or motivation for development of the ELRS remote. I’ve been keeping an eye on STM32 stability, and one time the STM running the screen got frozen. So while ELRS might be stable, if I use cheapo STMs that would still be dangerous.
Also I’ve moved to Novi Sad - Serbia. Love the country, beautiful city, but the roads are not as smooth as in Antalya, I’ve been wishing for a smoother ride so I can explore further without my knees complaining the next day.
As an experiment I bought a set of cheapo 5 inch wheels:
Did a small 15km test today, woo, this worked better than I expected. I didn’t even add riser height (maybe should add a couple mm just to be safe). My front leg didn’t even fill any bumps at all, I could roll over anything. The sidewalls on these are kinda floppy, so sometimes it feels a bit loose, but the grip and comfort are insane.
I want a full pneumatic cruiser now. Ideally I want to somehow get the Hoyt 5" tires. I’m trying to figure out logistics now. If I could get just the tyres, I could 3d print my own rims.
Upgrades!
ELRS remote:
ELRS 250hz, output PWM 100HZ
12x8x3.5 bearings
Constant tension on the gimbal
Tension adjustment with a set screw
Alps rdc9010006 pot (rated for 10m actuations)
Grip handle + experimental knuckle bumper
I gotta release the files at some point.
After 2 aliesxpress shipping fails, finally found where to buy just the tires and got enough of them to go full pneumatic:
Oh man, this thing is so much fun, just don’t care about road quality ever again.
15:56 gearing 325 belt
The front wheels have been great so far, so I used same print settings for the rear +1 extra perimeter.
layer height 0.2
perimeters 8
bottom layers 11
top layers 11
Gonna release files for this too. But I kinda had to go with custom pulley mount system, since the valve is in the way, as you can see there’s a cutout where the valve goes. The inner valve can be accessed with just 1 axle nut.
Pneumatics are addictive.
You can hear the squeaking sound in the video, well turns out the outer bearings on the motors were completely caked with dirt and weren’t spinning. They are pretty easy to take out - tapped them with screwdriver handle.
Probably gonna replace them with RS bearings later.
Still very impressed by these cheapo motors - no rust after 1 year, easy to take apart, easy to clean.
The next evolution of selfie stick.
I’ve lost my insta360 go2, so I’ve been using Hawkeye Thumb. The video is ok, but sometimes stabilization goes to shit.
It’s foldable, the power goes through the selfie stick, and it has a remote trigger button.
Got a used insta360 go 3. Love it.
//oh shit posted in the wrong thread
The remote has been great so far, the only problem was the on/off switch. Bad connection with a lot voltage drop, and it was hard to reach.
Found a narrow panel switch that would fit - KCD1-110
With a little bit of cutting - didn’t even have to reprint the case.
TPU hood to prevent accidental switching
Hope that switch treats you well, I’m scared of rockers for remotes…
I can get you some schematics for the “soft” switch circuit I use on the unfancy if you’re interested! Just two transistors and a few passives
Is it because they are easy to flip, or did you have them fail?
Please share, I have no idea how to implement switching controller+elrs on and off.
I also have these latching button boards:
It’s just that I want to minimize the amount of mechanical devices subject to vibrations upon which my integrity depend on 
This is the circuit I use:
Based on the following article:
My version just adapts the components for their SMD equivalents and also allows the same button to be used as input (on a different pin). Works like a charm!
