Shipped wrong LLT smart Bms, can I still make it work?

I mean the bluetooth is still discoverable even if the battery charger isn’t connected,
i guess it isn’t a huge consumption but still probably more than an antispark switch

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Its in a sleep mode until it receives a signal from the app. I think the draw is pretty negligible, but i don’t know specifics, i’m not that smart

What parameters are we talking about here? I have a 14s that I’m looking to turn into a 13s. I know the wire order, but what settings do I have to change to make the BMS read as a 13s?

Basic stuff : number of cells, chimestry and voltage cutoff i think

Where do I find those settings in the Android app? Or do I need the PC programming dongle?

Menu button on left top corner


Getting the bms to connect over bluetooth was a bit tedious but then it’s ok.
Pairing code is 123456 (took me two tentatives to find out)

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Where did you download that version of the app? I have a different version.

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https://www.lithiumbatterypcb.com/smart-bms-software-download/
the one writen APP3.1

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U living in the past Benjamin. Get some!

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Thanks yall!

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can someone send me a pic of how the 12S BMS pins are shorted?, I got a mislabeled 12S, 10S

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bumop need this info

ill start tagin!!!

from that low res pic I think every 4th pin is shorted to the next then 1 2 3 4-0 again.

Just hoping for a side-by-side pic.

Wish I noticed this before I wrapped up my only other 12S Smart BMS.


Smart BMS 12S pins short convert

Here’s mine. Never mind the fact it’s toast, but the shorted area is correct.

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Any clue the wiring needed to make 13s?

I’m not sure, presumably one of the shorts needs to be unsoldered and a new balance wire needs to go into the harness, but I’m not familiar with which one.


That is correct. 13s fixed like this

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Fantastic

Make me want to build a bms

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