In his honour, I kept the name: Roadkill MKII
Upgrades:
Bigben DS enclosure
12S8P 35E
7 Amp charger
DieBieMS
Metr module
Mount charge port and switch in baseplate (hole-less enclosure)
Balance wheels
Avio mini remote mod with some extra features
Bigben DS enclosure
Drilled the holes to match the existing ones, quite a PITA but managed it.
Added a foam layer on the inside to nicely seal when mounted and to protect anything that is in contact with the enclosure (which it shouldn’t)
My first plan was to use 30Q’s but had the opportunity to buy 35E’s at a very good price and in retrospect, I’m very happy. At 10amps each I don’t have a feeling that I miss any power and it saved me a lot of money.
I did a full capacity test cycle on each cell and they are all good. Grouped them according to capacity (even though the differences are small)
Due to previous experience with inconsistencies of the Sunkko welder I looked at other options and quickly I decided to buy a K-weld. Normally the price would hold me back more but 2 more friends are building batteries and we split the costs.
And boy is it a pleasure to work with the K-weld!
Layout
Since space is quite critical in this build I neatly planned the position of everything and was critical towards cable management. No cable is too long, nor too short. The BMS is slightly underneath the staggered battery pack but there is just enough space (5mm) te prevent them from touching and causing vibration damage. Every component is fixed with velcro dual lock. I love this velcro. Easily holds up my +5kg battery and I love the way it clicks and un-clicks in one smooth ‘snap’
Charge port and switch in baseplate
This completes the build for me. Neat and clean, very easy to access! On top of that… no holes in the bottom enclosure. Designed the part to neatly fit inside the baseplate. I use GX12 as charge port and Unity button instead of DieBieMS button because space is limited and that switch is huge! To keep it in place I used epoxy.
Side note: I’ll try to redesign the mount so that it stays in place with a hidden screw. Because if I need to replace the port or the switch I’ll have to destroy the thing.
Balancing of wheels
I knew that balancing is well worth the effort but I was quite surprised at how different each wheel was! On one of the wheels I had to add 4x5g weights!
My experience is if they are pinched with weight on them and they cross one another, then no. If it’s a bundle without a battery sitting on top of it, then yes.
I’m assuming your are talking about the balance and temp sensor wires? They are actually silicon wires.
as @b264 stated. They never cross and the battery doesn’t rest on them. But even If I would flip the battery, it still wouldn’t rest on them since they always are in between 2 cells.
Would anyone know if there is a readout possible of the temp sensors? In the DieBieMS tool and Metr I see one temperature but that is the one on the board itself.
What was the purpose of “balancing the wheels” and how necessary is it when using the Haggy Drive? Planning on getting it but this is the first I’m seeing about balancing the wheels?
Hey, you’ll find a lot of info here: AT Wheels Balancing Guide
In video clips you’ll also see the difference it makes at higher speeds. I’ve seen ppl going at high speeds without balancing with no issue’s but I find it little effort for the extra stability
When you use air tires there is a valve. This always causes a rather big static imbalance in the wheel.
You’ll have to reprint the case tho because it won’t fit in the avio mod.
Connection is easy for the switch part, just one line to interrupt. For the led part, I removed the one on the PCBA and connected the one from the switch to it This way it also blinks when you are in pairing mode, etc…
I wish I had the same skill with the materials you used!