Right as I finished the build I broke the anti-spark switch

Is that switch connected to the bms

Also those switches are cheap like between 2-8$ depending whether you order from China’s or amazon

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I am not sure where to start. That switch needs insulating asap. Is it connected directly to an esc of chinese origin? Or an actual anti spark component?

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Thanks for replying gentmen,

@Dareno That button is connected to a buildkit boards antispark switch, which is then connected to an esc of chinese origin. I definitely plan to insulate the connections but as it stands I’m probably just gonna cut that button off and try a new button.

@Halbj613
The switch is in between the BMS and the ESC, I’m hoping it’s just the button that’s messed up that’s forcing the switch to stay in the on position. Are you talking about a button like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Quentacy-Latching-Pushbutton-Switch-Waterproof/dp/B071H9KWL6?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_4

If these things are good to go as replacements I’ll try one of these

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d00d you’ve got mad DIY skillz!!!

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Just looking at pictures because I can’t read

If those are your solder joints… No offense in any way… but you’ve probably got much more wrong/needing help in the entire build than just the anti spark failing.

You should to over the how to solder thread and also post pics of the rest of the build in the noob questions (or here/make your own build thread) so people can give advise. Just don’t want your build to die in you, that always leads to frustration

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Thankfully I did none of the soldering in any other part of the build

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Yeah its straight up peasant tier

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You didnt break the antispark

It was doomed to fail

If you need a quick replacement, the flipsky smart antisparks are available now and shouldn’t explode.

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When it’s stuck on does that mean its something in the actual anti-spark switch, rather than the power button that’s broken?

Yes, MOSFETs failed short-circuit.

Flipsky smart antisparks should work, haggyboard is making some later this month.

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Ok thank you so much for saving me from spinning my wheels on a new button. To everyone worried about my soldering, do not fear, I am just going to pay an RC shop to do the soldering on the final product and will save my learning for a project that my life won’t depend on.

You won’t have to if you get the flipsky as it comes pre done for you. Happy days.

Disclaimer;

just looking out for you brother. Its all too easy to get some flamy shenanigans going on in there if you don’t insulate wiring

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Shoot I don’t think I’ll be getting my hands on one of those for awhile with Corona virus preventing cargo from getting into the US from China… I’m going to abandon the switch idea and see if I can get a loop key made by the RC shop I go to.

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My local RC shop does a soldering service too but to be honest its a good skill to learn and making a loopkey is a great place to start.

Have a read and then have a go at it.

For a while there I was incorporating a loopkey into the anti spark switch as an isolator and it also comes in handy when the switch inevitably fails as they predominantly fail open as in permanently on.

One thing to remember with any kind of new learn is to get the right tools. Get a decent iron and a set of “helping hands”.

This thing
image

I call mine @Brenternet

because its a proper tool.

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Getting the job done since 1884

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I have used that joke before but it was in the olden days of blue and white.

Couldn’t resist

:sunglasses:

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Hey Dareno, even though I had the RC shop build my loop key I wanted to take your advice and learn how to solder. I’m starting with just joining scrap wires together. Does this look serviceable, or at least like I’m getting the idea?

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Its good but there is no need to strip so much cable as you get more proficient. Soldering is as much about when as how. Once you have the heat generated the solder flows perfectly and that heat depends on the size of your cable and the size of the tip you use which is why its always a good idea to have a solder station capable of heat adjustments and changeable tips but as a first go then that is a good strong joint. At the end of the day that is really all that you are looking for.

Good work.

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Hate to admit it but that was actually try number 7, and the very first one that didn’t look like an amorphous blob or have black spots on it. Would stripping less cable make it so I don’t need as much heat? I’m guessing this is going to get a lot harder when I move to 12awg.

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Actually easier to be honest with the right equipment. I hate soldering little teeny wires because banana fingers but seriously it is easier to solder large gauge wires if you have the heat. I tend to over solder small stuff because impatient and have the heat up too high and too lazy to change tips. Whats the old adage?
Do as i say and not as I do?

Get a set of helping hands.

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