It would be fantastic if you or someone else could once be so kind to post a picture how the (i) roll-to-start option versus the (ii) power-switch option with 2 VESCs MK III looks like?
For example, it is still unclear to me how the power-switch option would be advantageous, or is it instead more or less identical, to the setup depicted below that also has a power switch (magenta arrow) although it uses 2 (old) VESCs 6 Plus instead of 2 VESCs 6 MK III (despite that it has a battery from Mboards and too many adapters, yes I know)?
Is that wood glue around the insert? If you still have a little bit of the insert slot that you used the tool on I would try to back it out with a flat head. If that doesnt work put some jb weld or epoxy on a cap head screw and let it cure fully. You should be able to get it out by backing it out by hand. I would also suggest installing the inserts by hand a cap screw and a nut between the cap head and the insert will make a world of difference.
Thank you kindly, I got the extrusion, but where did you get/what are the rollers called, can’t for the life of me think of what the name for that part actually is.
680 should be perfect… let us know how it goes… I haven’t tested 680 as I told you… I had a high-temp, high-strength epoxy available and used that… secondarily I’d have used 680 or 648 locktite…
Just curious how you managed to tightly screw your can cap and motor can together tightly?
I made a fixture to tighten the assembly as tight as I physically could once the epoxy was installed properly,
It was honestly a huge pain in the dick. The bottom of the stator sits on a bearing and is super easy to fuck it up and not have it thead on correctly. I was super scared doing this as loctite 680 dries fast af and I could have easily fucked myself if it dried before it was threaded on fully.
What I did was get the first thread in and kinda spread out the loctite evenly then threaded the can on.
