Rate my first battery build with the Kweld

I spent way too many years of my younger life soldering in poorly ventilated areas w/nothing pulling fumes out of my face (insert joke here)

Now I pretty much refuse to do a single joint without.
Just any fan placed infront of the iron pulling the fumes away is good enough. You don’t have to have serious ventilation, just getting the initial fumes out of your face. It’s moreso for the rosin than the lead (I think)

If you have small kids or pets in the house, that’s when you’d want to consider real ventilation. Like, I think a bird would actually die quickly.

You can always solder outside if doing low volume tho.

But yeah. Fan.
Cleaning up your joints with a bristle brush & isopropyl is also good practice, but not a requirement.

Buy standalone rosin flux while you’re getting new solder tho. If just a puck of paste, keep the puck around but also mix a bit of the paste w/isopropyl & put it in a syringe with a fine-tip luer lock or something. Very helpful to have around.

A wet sponge & metal scrunchy is also good if you don’t already have them - I haven’t used unleaded in a while, but I think leaded generally makes a bit more mess on your tip to regularly clean off.

2 Likes

this seems like minimalist cell isolation.

I love this solder. Bought it off @monsterbuilder ’s recommendation a while back and never looked back. Flows great.

2 Likes

That’s completely fine, no need for more fishpaper there as long as the P groups are held together by hot glue and/or fiberglass tape. I also use this method for similar layouts and I think I saw Glyphiks used it too a while ago.

3 Likes

I do the same, its fine for straight stacks. Personally, i like em closer to the shoulder, but probably doesnt matter.
Staggered would need 2 dots or strips.

2 Likes

I do dots all the time. I like it because you get fishpaper insulation as well as cell to cell glue contact. I only do it for straight stack tho, for staggered I use 2 x 10mm strip of fishpaper across the groups and still maintain cell to cell glue contact.

Given the information freely available on this website alone, as well as the length of time @murdomeek has been a member here, it’s pretty disappointing to see a battery like this in 2023.

2 Likes

While true, it must be noted that he’s been very receptive to feedback here. I’ve lost count of how many people ask for a review of their work and then proceed to make excuses, get butthurt, and/or brush aside concerns and solutions.

4 Likes

Yeah that’s fair

4 Likes

Rate my 2nd battery! :slight_smile:

This is my first time making a flat pack. I took all the feedback from the previous battery and applied them here.

  • 10s3p flat pack for my friends non flex esk8
  • 30a max amps
  • Panasonic GA 18650 cells (3500mah)

Step 1: Glue the P groups

Step 2: Wrap each group in fishpaper

Step 3: Glue the S groups together

Step 4: Spot weld. (snipped the corners on the positive ends)

Step 5: Solder on end leads. (Much better results with legit MG chemical solder)

Step 6: kapton tape and fishpaper the sides


Step 7:
I added a FR4 fiberglass sheet between the halves for extra protection

Step 8: BMS balance wire tabs

Step 9: BMS leads



Step 10: End leads

Step 11: Added some ebike wire loom I had for the balance cable exit since the BMS won’t be heat shrinked. And taped the + and - wires to the pack.


Step 12: Heat shrink

Thanks for any feedback you may have

1 Like

I wouldn’t have those balance lead tabs right next to eachother like that between the 2 halves,
especially tabs for the first p group and last p group. that is playin with fire

5 Likes

Keeps terminals separated. Maybe too late but could just flip the top n bottom halves

Some extra fish paper there will mitigate the risk mostly so you don’t need to redo that part.

1 Like

Seems missing some balance wire connections.

theyre all there

2 Likes