Maybe the motor transfers heat even better when potted since it’s sealed and no air is passing by anyway. The solid resin giving a more thermally conductive path from the wire to the stator than air
I find u can get some nice similar coloring by “bluing” stainless steel bolts n washer
Clean and then on the burner. Go too far and turns matte grey.
It already has 4 though😂
Thats pretty cool. I’m sure titanium would respond the best colour wise.
My Ti bolts are actually PVD coated to achieve their colours rather than by heating or anodising the titanium itself
I could be misremembering, but wasn’t it brought up that motor sensor wires need to be routed together in the same channel to minimize noise? From this pic it looks like they put each wire by itself. I’d be worried that these wires will act like a loop, and the moving magnetic field will cause voltage spikes.
I wonder if your sensor issues were because of how they route the wires 
I think you are referring to this post:
The thing is that it depends which wires are together and which are routed separately.
You can’t see that from the picture and I did not check it. If they did route the temp sensor wires in one slot an the Hall sensor wires in the other slot, than that is no problem at all.
Besides that I thought from FW5.1 upwards the temp reading was improved, so that even with jumping temperatures due to noice you will not get an instand throttling.
I’ve been thrown off on fw5.1 and 5.2 with maytech 6396 due to temperature sensors giving bad readings😒
Hm, shouldn’t be like that according to the fw changing notes. I got it somewhere if I could just find it again 
The problem is that even with heavy digital filtering the temp sense reading can still get badly off from aliasing. So if there isn’t proper analog low pass filters in series then the digital filtering we use can only do so much.
Imagine a large amplitude sin wave that matched the frequency you sample at. If you get unlucky and each sample aligns with a peak in the matched sin wave than signal smoothing and averaging will still vastly over-estimate the true value.
On the SC we implemented pretty low cutoff first order low pass filter to avoid this but filtering will only get you so far. Much better to have a good clean signal.
So routed in one slot temp wires and shielded twisted sensor cables in future only 
Or have the sensors in the front.
If they are just held together to minimize loop area that should also be good enough. Around a stator pole is really just awful.
There is another funny thing with this design: It addresses air flow in a similar way we have constructed our motors (suck in air at the front, blow it out at the back), but pretty much any surface the air can hit to cool the copper and magnets is filled with resin. This is a bit like an air cooled combustion engine where you fill the gaps in between the cooling fins with resin. Why airflow, if the surfaces are mostly thermally insulated?
I have done an experiment and stuffed one of our motors full with resin. The impact on cooling was dramatic. You loose pretty much all of the increased air flow gains. There is hardly any difference in between a fully closed motor and a battle hardened (thermally insulated) motor with air flow.
I really don’t see any reason to battle harden the stator. Just doing the magnets is enough in my opinion.
I love this sort of discussion.
I have only ordered 20 motors initially so I will see how they perform and what changes can still be made for the next batch. Moving the sensor pcb to the front is a decent redesign so shielding them and running within the same stator slot (if possible) looks like the way forward.
Based on other tests I have done recently trying to add a centrifugal blower to the back of an open motor it looks like the blower may be ineffective anyway but I will get some smoke (plugging in a Lacroix charger in Australia should do the trick) to see what the airflow is doing in one of the motor cans without the stator. If it actually works well, I will see if the resin can be ditched for the stator to allow more area for air to pass through
I really appreciate everyone’s input so far 
Hands down, these are the best looking esk8 motors I’ve seen.
Thank you! I think I drove the manufacturer nuts working on these, but they have been awesome to work with.
the more the merrier! Also sad no 8mm options 
all my stuff is 8 mm right now
